Run, don't walk -- three new McCrea wines...

[Bucko]

I put very few New World wines in my cellar. You can bet a few of these puppies are going to break the mold.

2004 McCrea, Sirocco, Washington State, $30, 481 cases. This is their third vintage of Sirocco, a Southern Rhone blend. Raspberries grab you upfront, followed by dark berries and a touch of earth. Tannins and acids are in perfect balance; 90/90.

2006 McCrea, Sirocco Blanc, Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley, Washington, $NA. What a delightful surprise! This blend of Southern Rhone varieties (grenache blanc, marsanne, picpoul, roussanne) is fruity and harmonious. The acidity is brighter than the French versions and much more to my liking; 91/NA.

2005 McCrea, Mourvèdre, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, Red Mountain, Washington, $30, 298 cases. This inky-colored mourvèdre has eight percent syrah added to the blend. Earthy and meaty, the wine has a host of blacks fruits and just a touch of pepper spice and licorice. Moderate tannins can use a couple of years in bottle. Delightful; 90/90.