1995 Beaux Freres

[Randy Caparoso]

Bucko, I agree -- mostly -- with you. Mostly, because virtually every year is a controversial year for Beaux Freres. Grower/winemaker Mike Etzel goes so far out on the limb (in the vineyard and winery) that his wines invariably end up thick, dark, powerfully aromatic, and at the same time unpredictable, often gassy, rough and tumble -- all the things one doesn't usually expect from demure, refined Oregon style Pinots. I actually prefer the '96 over the '95 -- it's a little cleaner, not as big, but still very compact and concentrated (in Etzel's self-professed "Rhone-meets-Oregon") style.

But will these wines round out with age? I tried a '92 recently with Etzel in Hawaii, and I can't say that I liked it -- it was definitely brown at the rim, and more tired than tumble. However, I think both the '95 and '96 will endure with a little more stability, and their natural, unruly gassiness will not be a factor at all.

Have you tried the '96 Belle Soeurs? Etzel's "sister in law" wine that theoretically doesn't make the "regular" Beaux Freres cut. I actually prefer it! Brighter, more accessible fruit; silkier, softer texture. I like the balance so much that I think it just might age better than it's bigger "brother in law," although I'm sure Etzel would love to prove me wrong.

When the first vintages of Beaux Freres came out, I have to confess to not liking them at all (I have a weakness for the purer, fresher Oregon styles of people like Ken Wright, Rex Hill and Chehalem). But after getting to know the folks up there and the sheer quality of their vineyard or terroir -- especially their passion for the grape and enormous work ethic -- I am now full of admiration. I may not flip over everything they do, but you gotta luv their style and chutzpah!

Bucko, I'll get back on and give you a list of the current Oregon releases I think are most exceptional when I get a hold of my most recent notes which I left in my office.