96 cabernets and 99 prices

[Randy Caparoso]

Ditto, folks. There are, of course, still lots of California Cabs under $10, but almost that I can honestly say I enjoy drinking. It's almost as if it starts to taste good, the price zips right up to $15-$20. I tell you how this has affected my restaurant wine buying, which I've been doing for 21 years -- this year I'm dropping low range California "house wine" (i.e. lower priced Cab, Chard & W Zin) from most of my lists. Instead, I've contracted for a first rate winemaker in Italy to produce over 3000 cases of Merlot and 2000 cases of Pinot Grigio instead. This might sound un-American (please don't report me!), but the quality I'm getting in respect to the much lower price is, as the song goes, simply irresistable.

One of the last great inexpensive California Cabernet producers, in my book? Patrick Campbell, who makes "Terra Rosa." But guess where he now gets the grapes from? South America. Tells you something.