Acid With Acid

[Randy Caparoso]

I'm sorry, Foodie, but I beg to differ -- not with the fact that brie is complimented by Champagne, but your assumption that there is no similarity between brie and Champagne.

Yes, brie goes quite nicely with higher acid wines such as Champagne and Loire River Sauvignon Blancs because they share similar, earth toned aromas and flavors. The yeasty qualities of Champagne, in fact, serve to heighten the stony, minerally characteristics that mingle with the taste of brie.

I have always made the point that focusing on one component -- such as acidity in both food and wine -- is a simplistic approach to food and wine matching. Besides the factors of similarity and contrast of components, the major components themselves also entail body (relating to density of foods), tannin (relating to bitterness of foods), sugar (self evident), saltiness and hot/spiciness (usually looking for balancing sweetness and/fruitiness in wines), the little understood but pervasive sense of umami (combinations of amino acids contributing to overall sense of "deliciousness" in both foods and more mature wines), and last but not least, actual flavor (aroma related in both foods and wines) and texture (i.e. crisp wines/crunchy foods, soft or rounded wines/soft or oily foods).

This is precisely why so many wines go with so many foods. A Pinot Noir, for instance, may go just as well with the same salmon dish as a Pinot Gris, but for a different set of reasons. And the more complex the wines and dishes, the more reasons created.

This is no rocket science we're dealing with. A good match is a good match, as you and your students know instinctively. I look for the "high percentage" matches. I know you do because when faced with the complex meal you had the other night, you reached for the wine (a Finger Lakes Dry Riesling) that is likely to find the most similarities and contrasts in your foods. Sometimes we talk the same language about different experiences, but in this case we've had the same experience but are just portraying it differently.


[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 05-11-2002).]