Business Week article

[Scoop]

The death of the French wine industry has been greatly exaggerated. Sure, it faces more competition worldwide -- and, in general, the French almost always react to such situations defensively (to wit: the fight against the incursion of English) -- but there are goods things happening in many French vineyards, particularly in southern France (Provence, the Languedoc). And in terms of value, France is certainly one of best sources these days.

While French wines largely adhere to AOC laws and the concept of "terroir", varietal labeling is certainly on the rise in France (which, under EU law, is permitted if the wine is made from 85% of a single grape variety). Also, grape varieties are also being stated more and more in the fine print on the back of the bottle. This stems from market pressures.

At the same time, some California and other "New World" producers are seriously trying to develop "terroir"-driven wines, where place (and soil) means as much as the variety(ies) chosen. Why? A more sophisticated wine market (and winemakers), at least at the top end. So, in a sense, Europe and the US are slowly, haltingly moving toward each other in terms of labeling, albeit from radically different starting points, although it's no stretch to say that Europe will remain much more detailed, regulated and geographically-designated than its New World competitors -- and that's a good thing.

For example, "Barbaresco" means something, almost a guarantee of quality and a certain style of wine, while "Napa Valley" can take you across the entire spectrum, from plonk to the sublime.

Cheers,

Scoop