by the glass

[Randy Caparoso]

Hmmm. Interesting new points and topics of discussion.

I've been following the "Wine, What Are You Saving It For?" campaign, and I think it's as good as anything that's come out. I've also like some of the Sutter Home commercials that have come out the past two years, as well as the new ones showing Gina Gallo -- at long last, the public can see that wine can be fun (not just "fine"), and that people involved in the business have "personality."

Think about it. I buy wine from people who not only make good wine, but who are also real characters in my life (my favorites: Jim Clendenen, Tony Soter, Lynn Penner-Ash, Forrest Tancer, and Patrick Campbell, to name a few). I don't buy heavy, on the other hand, from anonymous figures. And I'm sure it's the same with all of you who've been around, and met winemakers and proprietors. So the question is: how come the industry has capitalized on that super-basic, human appeal?

I have four kids, by the way -- 11, 13, 16 and 19. The oldest has gone away, but is quite the gourmet (although not a big wine drinker). All of them, as you might imagine, grew up knowing exactly what shiitake shrimp risotto, Caesar salad, vine ripened tomatoes, and the differences between linguine and fettucine, basil and tarragon, striploin and filet mignon, white rice and basmati rice, sour dough and French bread, cappuccino and latte, etc. are. Simple reason -- their dad's in the business, and mom's a great cook!

Consequently, I'd bet my bottom dollar that they'd never grow up and abuse alcohol. They know its purpose because we've always shown it to them; and I confess, we also let them enjoy the taste of wine (although not actually "drink" it).

But they're still kids. In fact, we took three of them out tonight, and they were fighting about seats, whose knee was touching whose, tattling when extra sugar went into the decaf mocha, blah, blah. Not exactly the most restful meal, but pretty typical.

I'm digressing, so here's my opinion on bringing kids out in public: restaurateurs that don't welcome them are damned fools. If they don't know how to handle them -- which means serving THEM first, and thus allowing parents to relax (and spend more money) -- then they should figure it out. Where do you think America's future customers -- and wine aficionados -- are coming from? I can talk, because we totally welcome them in our James Beard Award winning, two-toque restaurants.

Of course, if you're a super-fine French restaurant, why would you worry since you'll rarely see kids (few can afford to bring offspring with hamburger tastes to $100 per head restaurants), and those that you do will be pretty much schooled anyway (by rich parents who would be determined to get their money's worth)?

I say that if a restaurant does not welcome and pamper your kids, they really do not deserve your business. Take them somewhere else. This is, of course, presuming that you've done your part by teaching them some basic etiquette.