by the glass

[Randy Caparoso]

Sometimes I think it's better for things to remain memories. Times change, reality sets in. With all due respect, it's very difficult for me to accept the idea that it's dollars, not percentages, that go into the bank. The reality is that percentages always take precedence over dollars because whether you're doing half-mil a year or 6 mil, if you're not meeting your costs by managing your percentages (first!), you're just spinning your wheels. What's the sense of doing 6 million a year when it cost 6.5 to operate? The ugly part is that when you're at that level, you definitely have to cater to more than just wine aficionados. Which is why, I would guess, successful, long-running places like The Hobbit (I'm only using it as an example) are likely to remain small -- very small.

Getting back to the retail store/restaurant connection in my dream restaurant: I agree. I've always thought that a modest, fairly low inventory retail store would be appropriate within this cutting-edge cafeteria style restaurant concept. A big inventory (which to me is anything over $25,000 cost) would defeat the purpose of my low-frills/high quality scheme.

Last month I visited this incredible store in Sarasota, Florida (the name escapes me, since at the time they were in the midst of a name change) which had this extraordinary retail selection (put together, I believe, partly by an ex-Emeril's sommelier) of all the most cutting-edge wines today (Dalla Valle, Ridge-Monte Bello, Gaja, Colin-Deleger, Beaux Freres, Sassicaia, and anything Larry Stone, Gambero Rosso, or Tanzer might like). But when I drove up -- at about 10:30 p.m. on a weekday -- I couldn't believe that I had found the right place. There were so many beautiful people -- 20s up to mid-30s, very hip yet professional looking -- just hanging out on a front deck spilling out from a packed, bar type scene. I found that the store occupied half the space, and that you could buy the wines retail and then drink them for a modest corkage ($10 I believe) right on the premises. So, Curmudgeon, it definitely could still work today -- younger wine lovers are most definitely interested! If not for food, at least for a chance to just hang out and, well, be cool. I'll call a friend to get the name of the place, unless anyone listening already knows it.