by the glass

[Randy Caparoso]

Woodman, there's no excuse for 7 times markup. Is Alice White Chardonnay any good? Whatever the case, any restaurant that sells even average quality "house" wine for fore than 4.5 times markup deserves to go under. Like I said, restaurateurs are usually in it for the love; but some are definitely better, and smarter, than others. No wonder you meet so many people who say, "I used to own a restaurant." Thank goodness, they no longer do.

Foodie, it's true that it's a wiser diner who knows that in most restaurants these days wines that sell for more than $40 generally have the lowest markup. It's like punishing the timid. But again, it's really no differnt than food. For a fabulous cut of beef in a place like Ruth's Chris, for instance, you pay through the nose even though Mizz Ruth actually runs an extremely high cost on her food (no wonder she charges mega for wine!). As in wine, you pay the price and get a "deal" at the same time.

Here's another caveat: it's no secret that restaurateurs can't resist the compulsion to charge the most for the most popular wines like blue chip Merlot and Chardonnay brands; simply because they know that's where their overhead will be met. On the other hand, wines like Domaine Delmas Cremant de Limoux, Bogognani Moscato, and Charles Joguet Chinon barely get marked up over two times. Heck, I sell an Australian Tokay for BELOW cost. Why? Because that's the only way I can move this stuff which I love to sell so much.

Message: in a decent restaurant it pays to ask an owner or sommelier what he likes that's "a little different." If it's in your price range, you can almost bet that it'll be a better value choice.

But regarding the idea of "enticing" Americans to drink more wine. Sadly, most restaurants are well aware of the fact that people who go out to eat go out to EAT -- not drink wine. Therefore, it only makes sense for restaurateurs -- from the smallest to the most big time -- to be inclined to mark up food more kindly than wine. There is, however, no great great industry-wide conspiracy underfoot to gouge the consumers with wine lists. Restaurants are a business like any other. For instance, no one would dream of criticizing Mike Grgich, Chuck Wagner Sr. or Madame Lalou for marking up their wines. For one, they're nice, sincere people; and two, they deserve the prices they get, for goodness sake. You don't have to buy their stuff; especially when there's so much else out there. Should be the same way with restaurants. Isn't that the way of the free world?