Beef fondue

[Randy Caparoso]

Well, then, that changes everything, doesn't it? Shows you how many fondue parties I go to! (In recent years, zilch).

Your instincts for lighter style alternative reds are still apropos, and there are many of them out there. I think a great way to find what you and your friends like is to have several different types to try at your fondue bash.

For starters, Cabernet Franc is an excellent suggestion. There are a few (not a lot) California brands based upon this varietal (look for Nelson, Niebaum-Coppola, Cosentino, Babcock's "Fathom" or Justin's "Justification"). The French alternatives come from the Loire; such as Chinon (Charles Joguet is the best known for his soft, velvery, smoky cuvees), Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny.

Italian style Merlots, Valpolicella (try a Ripassa style by Zenato or Allegrini for adventure!), and some of the new fangled blends by Falesco (such as the Falesco Sangiovese/Cabernet/Merlot derived "Vitiano") are also very good, soft, light-to-medium bodied reds.

Sangiovese is an interesting varietal -- soft tannin, crisp acidic edges, and woodsy, red cherry aromas and flavors. Antinori, Ruffino, and Casa Ema make classic examples in Chianti (among dozens of others), although other Tuscan D.O.C.s such as Carmignano (blended with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon) and Rosso di Montalcino are easy going alternatives; not to mention smooth and zesty edged Sangiovese di Romagna from nearby Emilia-Romagna. Examples of world class Sangiovese from California include Swanson, Vita Nova, Ca' del Solo, Noceto, Babcock, and Ferrari-Carano's lovely "Siena" (the latter blended with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec).

Grenache based reds are also very good -- mildly spicy (as opposed to very spicy, like Pinot Noir and Syrah), medium bodied, firmer than a Gamay or Beaujolais, but soft and flavorful. I recommend Rosemount's GSM for starters; a Vacqueyras or Cotes du Rhone from Southern France; or something from Jade Mountain or Cline from California.

Don't forget Spain! Smooth, easy, moderately weighted styles include Abadia Retuerta's Tempranillo based red, and the Syrah or Monastrell by Carchelo.

Finally, remember that classic California Zinfandel comes in all shapes and sizes, but invariably with a subtly blackpeppery, cinnamony, jammy blackberry/raspberryish characteristics. Lovely with your mildly spiced/peppery beef fondue dips. Among the softer, plumper (as opposed to big, thick and hard) styles are Robert Sinskey's "Adventures of Zinskey," the Ridge "Sonoma Station," Lolonis "Redwood Valley," Rancho Zabaco, Gallo "Stefani," and Edizione Pennino (by Niebaum-Coppola).

And this is just a start. There are many more alternative, "light" reds -- it's just a matter of discovering them as you go along!

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 12-23-1999).]