UNBELIVEABLE MERLOT VALUE

[Randy Caparoso]

Thanks, Curmdugeon. I'll look it up. Personally, I'm nutso over the '96 Heron Merlot from the Languedoc, which must retail for $9-$10 in most major markets. While not tested in competitions, it is every night in eight of our restaurants; and guests are flipping out. My second and third choices are two made by Riccardo Cotarella in Italy -- the '96 Stella Merlot (for about $6, super easy, purely and lusciously cherry-like with zero oak)and the slightly richer, yet soft and supple '96 Falesco Merlot (about $10).

All of the above, by the way, are featured in Joshua Wesson's Best Cellars stores in Manhattan and Boston (and soon to come to Seattle). Great, great stores. Why? Because all they sell are 100 choices at a time of wines retailing for $10 or less -- no less, no more! Each selection is merchandised with Wesson's enjoyably humorous, yet detailed, tasting notes. In-store tastings are held daily from about 2:00 to 5:00 (you can literally walk in and ask to taste anything -- with some limits, of course); except on Saturdays, when Wesson likes to do cooking demo/tastings at around 11:00 a.m. Now there's a guy that knows a great cheap wine when he finds it (there's al ot to be said for being able to observe customers' immediate reaction and gauging sales in that kind of store).