A host of Syrahs

[Bucko]

1999 Buffalo Ridge, Syrah, French Camp Vineyard, Central Coast, California, $12, 2,000 cases. Blackberry, raspberry, and vanilla spice entice the nose. Well-balanced and very approachable now. Lush raspberries define this wine, with added nuances of nutmeg, spice, and black tea. Silky tannins persist on the long, fruity finish. 86/90.

1998 Duckpond, Syrah, Fries’ Desert Wind Vineyard, Columbia Valley, Washington, $30, 500 cases. Deep ruby, with black fruit, dark tea and smoky aromas. This offering is full-bodied, with lush blackberry fruit, spice, smoky oak vanillin, and very chewy tannins that need several years of aging. 85/84.

1999 McCrea, Syrah, Amerique, Yakima Valley, Washington, $40, 115 cases. Doug McCrea uses 100% American oak in this special cuvee. Intensely colored, this wine yields dark fruit, smoke and dill aromas. Rich plum jam, moderate caramel and vanilla notes, a touch of pickle barrel, and smooth tannins round out the wine. 90/86.

1999 McCrea, Syrah, Boushey Grande Cote Vineyard, Yakima Valley, Washington, $38, 173 cases. Sweet black fruit and chocolate aromas highlight this deep purple offering. Soft on the palate, rich blackberry jam and wild blackberry flavors seamlessly meld with silky tannins. June 2001 release. 91/88.

1999 McCrea, Syrah, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, Yakima Valley, Washington, $38, 172 cases. Inky colored, with aromas of blackberry and asian spices. The tannins are more substantial in this wine, yet very forgiving. Blackberry, plum and mocha flavors are up-front, with raspberry nuances on the racy, lengthy aftertaste. June 2001 release. 90/87.

1998 McCrea, Syrah, Cuvee Orleans, Yakima Valley, Washington, $45, 98 cases. Very dark in the glass, with aromas of blackberry jam, light smoke and meaty notes. Very elegant and polished on the entry, the silky tannins make a statement in their finely tuned integration with the wine. Sweet blackberry fruit predominates, with a touch of spicy flavors and brown sugar intermingling throughout. 93/88.

1999 McCrea, Syrah, Yakima Valley, Washington, $33, 466 cases. Dark ruby, with black fruit, roasted coffee beans and a hint of smoke on the nose. Lush and fairly complex, you’ll find black cherry, mulberry, coffee, and cedar flavors, with a touch of plum on the long, smooth, crisp finish. 89/87.

1998 Rosemount, Shiraz, Show Reserve, McLaren Vale, Australia, $24. The nose can best be described as wild berries and spice. Full-bodied and rich, the wine is very fruity, with a touch of mint. The finish is quite long, with mixed berry flavors and firm, but supple tannins. 88/89.

1998 Rosemount, Shiraz Cabernet, Mountain Blue, Mudgee, Australia, $50. A big nose of plum, mocha and mint greets you. Very rich and elegant on the palate, you’ll find complex blackberry, plum and spice flavors. Moderate but supple tannins endure on the very long, fruity finish. 91/85.

1999 White Heron, Syrah, Mariposa Vineyard, Washington, $13. Black fruit, a touch of smoke and cedar greet the nose. Very fruity, elegant, with a touch of black pepper and food-friendly acidity, the wine paired beautifully with beef tenderloin and green peppercorn sauce. 86/90.