4 Nice New World Syrahs

[Bucko]

1999 Chateau Ste Michelle, Syrah, Reserve, Columbia Valley, Washington, $29. Very densely colored. The aromas speak of smoked meat, plums and vanilla. Nicely balanced, with satiny tannins. Flavors of plums, cherries, vanilla and minerals cascade across the tongue, begging for a grilled t-bone. 88/88.

1999 Firefall, Syrah, Lone Meadow Vineyard, El Dorado, California, $20, 337 cases. You're not going to read the newspaper through this inky new release. Each sip reveals another layer of ripe berries, chocolate and spice. Lean, balanced, with polished tannins, this wine is definitely a match for BBQ fare. 86/87.

2000 Hess Select, Syrah, California, $14. We need more of these fun to drink, good value wines. Blackberries, blueberries, cherries, vanilla and spice intermingle with the ripe tannins to provide a wine that is perfectly drinkable tonight or over the next two to three years. 88/91.

2000 Marchetti, Syrah, California, $35. Soft, lush, with red cherries and a black pepper streak running the length of the wine. Tannins are smooth, allowing early consumption. 88/87.