The "New, Improved (?) Rhone Rangers"

[Randy Caparoso]

Can't help but feel the need to report on a few exciting California Syrahs -- mostly from the Central Coast -- which are finally beginning to fulfill the promise of the original Rhone Ranger movement in the late '80s. The following generation of Syrah producers definitely goes way beyond what we previously used to view as tops:

First, the '97 Jaffurs Santa Barbara Syrah is incredibly rich and meaty, with a feel that is all at once thick, lush, and well rounded. Even richer -- stuffed with sweetly spiced, jammy blackberry flavors -- is the enthrallingly aromatic '96 Fess Parker "Rodney's Reserve" Santa Barbara Syrah. Definitely a candididate for "King of the Wild Frontier."

Then there is the '97 Beckman Santa Barbara Syrah -- a big hunky style, with sweet, jammy, cracked peppercorn aromas studding black and blue fruit qualities. This bruiser does roughen the palate a little bit; which, however, would not ordinarily bother someone weaned on the classic Cornas bottlings of producers like Clape and Verset.

Then, I recently found a surprising one from Nevada County -- the '96 Indian Springs Syrah, which is a near dead-ringer for the original Rhone Valley style, its spiciness akin to the classic French quatre-epices ("four spice") mix of peppercorn, nutmeg, clove and ginger that go into southern French style wood grilled sausages. The tannins are moderate -- half-way between a typical St. Joseph and typical Hermitage -- and the flavors round and sweetly intense.

In the Best Buy department, the wise shopper should keep an eye out for the '98 Echelon Syrah (retailing for $10-$13), which carries a California appellation, and is filled with sweet, ripe, lush strawberry/vanillin aromas with light peppery spice and fruity, yet fleshy, feel.

Finally, outside of California, I can't help but feel like I'm doing a public service, pure and simple, by mentioning the '97 Carchelo Syrah ($9-$11) from Jumilla in Southeast Spain. This is a soft, plummy, medium bodied style, with juicy, pepery, blackberry skin aromas and a velvety, cushiony texture. Clear-cut evidence that California and Australia will definitely not have an exclusive on other-worldly style Syrah in the next Millennium!

But wait, there's more: What are the absolutely BIGGEST Syrahs currently available? I mean, the ones that can please the most masochistic, slap-happy red Rhone lovers (similar to the ever growing motley crew of Zin lovers). I would say that that would be the '97 Neyers "Hudson Vineyards" Syrah, which a pitch black, almost jaw breaking, critical mass of fruit, tannin, meat and muscle. From Australia, it would be a toss-up between the '97 D'Arenberg "Dead Arm" Shiraz (unrepentently huge, sinewy and concentrated) and the '96 Trevor Jones "Wild Witch Reserve/Dry Grown" Barossa Valley Shiraz. The latter must be tasted to be believed -- midnight blue-black, velvety, and so juicy, thick and concentrated that it practically dribbles from the bottle lip -- and if you see it and pass it up... well, you be nuthin' but a fool. 'Nuff said.


[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 11-20-1999).]