Routas 1999 Carignane

[Thomas]

By the case, this is $10.80 a bottle at is-wine. Is it worth it? You bet.

The color of blood, the consistency of a medium oil, the flavor of spice (cinnamon comes to mind, as does allspice and even a little pepper), this wine is a perfect match for lamb, and so I fixed those tiny loin lamb chops.

First I experimented with the buttermilk soak--it worked again. Then I fired up a cast iron skillet to top speed; did the chops two minutes on each side; turned off the heat (and the stove fan), covered and let sit for three minutes; then removed the chops and placed on a plate to await the sauce.

The sauce: shallots and garlic sauteed in olive oil--two minutes for the shallots, one minute for the garlic. Then deglaze with 1/2 cup Amantillado, add a dash of soy sauce, three sprigs of rosemary, a pat of butter and reduce. When down to about 1/3 its original volume, poured the sauce over the lamb, ground some black pepper, threw some fresh mint on top of the chops, ate with the Carignane.

Do the word sublime make any sense at all?

The only drawback: Routas calls this an "old vine" Carignane. I am about tired of that designation. If vines are allowed to grow, they naturally become old--how old is old anyway?--and they naturally take on that sage character that age provides them (and us too--except maybe ww and Bucko, young-at-heart Devils that they are).

The only hitch to the meal: I also had some fresh, sweet upstate NY corn on the cob. Can't have that with Carignane--but it was good with a taste of Vermentino.