One hell of a lunch tasting.....

[Randy Caparoso]

I'm sorry it took a few days for me to reply. Somehow, I kept missing this thread.

"Petrol" in Riesling is not exactly a flattering, or orthodox descriptor. The fact that it is common enough is proof enough that it is one of instrinsic characteristics of the grape. Just like an apple tastes "appley," and a blueberry "blueberryish."

But petrol in Riesling is probably similar to the words "grassy," "weedy," or even "green peppery" which are associated with Sauvignon Blanc. It doesn't mean that such characteristic are automatically to be found, or even desired, in such varietals. In fact, it's generally conceded that these qualities (or "negatives") are noticeably absent in the very finest examples of these varietals.

For example, the most famous British wine writers -- such as Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson -- are thunderously silent when it comes to the usage of the words "petrol" or "fusel" when talking about Riesling. And outside of Germany itself, there are probably no greater experts on the subject than the Brits. I'm fairly certain that the reason that the word doesn't enter into their vocabulary much is because their idea of Riesling is what is grown in the great regions like the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, the Rheingau, Pfalz, Nahe, and Rheinhessen; where you are more apt to find characteristics of lime, peach, apricot, and flowery perfume, and very rarely anything similar to what makes your car run.

I first heard the word "petrol" used in a story written about Napa Valley's Andre Tchlistcheff in the late '70s; in which the late, great winemaker was describing the aroma that he finds common to Napa Valley grown Rieslings. Thank goodness, virtually all of Riesling vines in that region have since been pulled out.

You'll also find the Aussies often throw that word around when talking about Riesling. But because their growing regions are, like Napa Valley, on the warm side, for the Aussies an oily connotation in Riesling has actually become something of a positive. It is so common that they not only expect it, they love it!

So in conclusion: Petrol is definitely a characteristic inherent in the Riesling grape, but more common when grown in warm climatic conditions, resulting in wines with higher alcohol and glycerol levels, and lower fruit extract. Which means virtually all the time in Australia, very often in California, and only occasionally (in particularly warm, dry years, or in warmer sub-pockets) in places like Germany and Alsace.