Der Kuss Spatburgunder

[Scoop]

Howard Goldberg wrote the following in his "Wine Under $20" column in The New York Times (1/27/02):

"This Kiss Is Slightly Sweet

Willie Gluckstern, who imports offbeat German wines, calls his Weingut Blankenhorn Spaetburgunder (pinot noir) a curio. It's aptly named Der Kuss (The Kiss). Expect a souffle weight and a stream of delicious near-sweet cherry-like flavor. Grilled salmon is this delicious Baden red's ideal companion; ham and turkey come next. Is-Wine, 225 East Fifth Street (second Avenue), asks $15."

While the write-up brought Is-Wine some business, IK's description of the wine is much better than Goldberg's. With the light color and the up-front fruit, there is an initial impression of lightness, but I assure you, there is some tannin and body to this wine, as well as some complexity that IK noted -- it has some guts. It's a delicious example of a German red, something which for many -- but not me -- is an oxymoron.

Cheers,

Scoop