History of Riesling

[Innkeeper]

At least one view. Back in the middle ages (1950's) on the East Coast anyway, people drank German Riesling for white wine, and French Reds for red. The Riesling was more popular than French Whites because they were much cheaper. At the time California was producing more gold than wine, and the world was on the Gold Stantard. As a result the German Mark was pegged at 4 to 1 versus the American Dollar.

In the ensuing decade or two a couple of things happened. The world went off the Gold Standard, and Californians turned from gold production to wine. The German Mark quickly grew to 1.5 to 1, and Robert Mondavi put out his first line of wine. His Johannisberg Riesling was priced at an outrageous $7.50 while his Chardonnay (his only Chardonnay at the time) came in at $3.50. Americans bought the Chardonnay, because in those days value was still king. The rest is history viz-a-viz the future of Chardonnay versus Riesling.

In the '80s and '90s producers in Washington and California and later in New York (as Foodie frequently reminds us) started to increase American Riesling production. A few wine writers including Jerry Mead started to plug it as a preferred accompaniment for shellfish. Now there are many outstanding producers of Riesling in all three areas, as well as in some of the recently emerging wine regions. Of course the Germans still produce it, but the cost/value quotient compared to what is being produced here and elsewhere is reminiscent of the Mondavi Riesling/Chardonnay days.

The problem is that Chardonnay is still king of whites, and oaky Chardonnay at that. If anyone knows how to change the American palate, please post your recommendations here. In the meantime let's enjoy our Riesling no matter where it comes from.