gewurtztraminer

[Randy Caparoso]

A consideration for our friend from Newberg in Oregon (home of some wonderful wineries, like Chehalem and Rex Hill) is whether she likes them dry or slightly to medium sweet, and light to fairly full.

If you prefer them lightly sweet and medium bodied, California is for you. I'd recommend the aforementioned Fetzer, although you may like those of Thomas Fogarty, Storrs and Handley even better.

The finest light, medium sweet Gewurztraminers made in the world are from Germany. If you see one made by Weingut Pfeffingen, for instance, you're in for a special treat -- like drippingly rich, fresh lychee with rose petals. Not inexpensive, mind you (over $20 retail), but a treat nonetheless.

If you prefer DRY, and medium to full bodied, Gewurztraminers, then you should stick to Alsace, France. On top of the other recommendations, my personal favorite Alsatian producers (because of quality as well as value) include Albert Boxler and Andre Kientzler.

Italy makes them light and on the dry side. I think the Pojer & Sandri Traminer, for instance, is wonderfully fresh, fragrant, fruity, yet dry to the taste, and very reasonably priced (generally under $12, I believe).

Then there's Oregon. I've judged in the Oregon State Fair and I can't say that there's something to write home about when it comes to their dry or off-dry Gewurztraminers (of course, some of the producers would violently disagree). However, Oregon makes some incredible, sweet, "late harvest" Gewurztraminers -- more for fresh fruit and creamy desserts or sipping by themselves, but nonetheless wonderful. I strongly recommend those of Tualatin and Silvan Ridge. In fact, I once tried a Silvan Ridge "Ice Wine" (when the grapes are left so long on the vine that they freeze in the early winter) that absolutely bowled me over. As good as you-know-what!