1998 Vilmart Cuvee Creation

[VouvrayHead]

$85

This is the best Chardonnay (80%) heavy Champagne I've tasted.

Pale gold color, very fine bead. Barely more bubbles than prosecco.

The nose is really friendly with upfront sweet bread dough yeastiness with bright orange notes behind that and a touch of nutmeg or a similar spice. As the night wore on, the orange became the dominant aroma, and sweet cream joined the party.

On the palate it is very bright, with lots of doughy orange, vanilla, coconut, and cream flavors. Excellent acidity makes the whole thing float, and the finish is really impressive with creamy and toasty notes at the back-end.

The 98 was the first vintage that Vilmart sourced from the 40+ yr vines as opposed to 25 yr-old vines in previous vintages. They age the stuff in oak, which accounts for all the creamy flavors.

Overall, I still prefer pinot heavy Champagne, but this is unique and absolutely fabulous.

By the way, one of the prettiest bottles I've seen.