Four from France

[Bucko]

NV Krug, Brut Champagne, Grande Cuvée, France, $120. This wine delivers everything that I love about Champagne – subtleness, complexity and balance. Aromas and flavors speak of lemon creams, spice, caramels, hazelnuts, toast and mineral notes, all supported by brisk acidity. The finish is endless. Drink over the next five years; 95/93.

NV G.H. Mumm, Champagne, Cordon Rouge, Champagne, France, $41. This Brut Champagne sparkles with a fine bead. Bread dough, pear and green apple aromas give way to toasty, nutty, lemony flavors. The finish is very dry and crisp; 89/89.

NV G.H. Mumm, Champagne, Joyesse, Champagne, France, $41. Looking for sweet Champagne? This demi-sec may be the answer. Displaying a fine mousse, aromas of peaches, pears and honey unfurl on the nose then morph into flavors of pears, figs and hazelnuts. The acidity carries the sugar with ease; 88/88.

NV Pol Roger, Brut Champagne Réserve, France, $35. This is my house Champagne, a tasty wine that you can proudly serve guests without breaking the bank. Citrus, spice, cashews and bread dough highlights the nose, which expands on the palate to reveal lemon, apple and mineral notes. Lively acidity breathes life into the wine; 90/90.