'97 Zins - top picks

[Randy Caparoso]

I tell you somthing -- better enjoy those '97s (no matter how they "rate'), because the '98s will probably be uneven. I would also venture to say that many of the '97s will turn out wonderful because, frankly, vintners are getting better and better at feeling them out in the vineyards, and at raising them (elevage) in the winery. And this goes for even longtime producers like Ridge (who up until very recently were making them way over dillweedy-oaky).

But the best '97s? Gosh and golly, I'm still going through '96s! But among the early releases, I don't think anyone would disagree that the '97 De Loach "OFS" as well as '97 "Gambogi" are absolute winners -- big, lush, and intoxicatingly aromatic. The next best one that I have tried is the Everett Ridge from Dry Creek Valley; a new winery making wine from turn of the century vines, whose '97 is extraordinarily concentrated (blackberry, cassis, cinnamon-and-clove spice), with a finely polished texture and balance (reminiscent of the best Nalle's and the older Quivira's).

Frankly, I would suggest keeping an open mind about exactly what recent vintage is "superior." Because gee, many of these '96s are tasting awfully nice!


[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 05-28-99).]