1997 Sobon

[Randy Caparoso]

Typical of the region, if you ask me. The oakiness -- especially American. I'm not trying to turn this thread into a rant also, but we have been talking about oak lately. What I don't understand is why a lot of producers -- especially in Amador and parts of Sonoma (names shall go unmentioned) -- insist on using such aggressive American oak that the wines start to taste milky, and often varnishy (like furniture polish). I love oak, but only when it enhances (rather than obliterates) the natural raspberry/blackberry jamminess.

I've always had a hard time with this. In the mid to late '80s, for instance, even Ridge was guilty of this; but of course, they've since gone way beyond this (their '90 vintages have been spectacularly rich in varietal, rather than oak, intensity, which is why I feel free to mention it).

Talking about positives, I've always thought that Doug Nalle and Mike Grgich have always had a nice touch (and great sensibility) with the use of French oak for Zin. What do you think?