1998 Russian River Zin Preview

[Randy Caparoso]

The Russian River Zin plantings, as most of you know, are dominated by Cecil and Christine De Loach. It's an unusual area for the grape, grown as it is right alongside all those wonderful Pinot Noir plantings in relatively cool climes. Consequently, compared to, say, Dry Creek Valley, in most years Russian River Zins veer closer towards black fruit and blueberry concentrations, with less red/raspberry and raisined qualities. They can also have wonderful velvet textures, whereas Dry Creek Zins tend to have more raw flesh and muscle. Both styles, of course, are wonderful. There just ain't enough great Zin in this world, anyway.

That said, it's my habit to visit De Loach every winter or early spring to select a single 60 gallon barrel for my personal devices (that is, to be divided and served in four of our restaurants each fall).
Last week I tasted the '98s, which winemaker Dan Cedarquist described as coming from a "bizarre year" -- high acids, high sugars, characteristic blackberry & blueberry fruit qualities, but with more ripe cherry veering towards prune than normal. All of which means that '98 is not to be considered an optimum or typical year for them, although I'm sure they'll be able to piece together a pretty admirable "OFS" blend from their bounty of pickings (at least a dozen each year).

If you buy single vineyard De Loach's, the '98 to get will probably be the Gambogi -- midnight black ruby, concentrated, sweet black and blue berries, jammy, velvety flavors, and thick, smoky, coffee bean flavors in the middle and finish.

De Loach's '98 Pelleti is a bit Port-like -- strictly for those who like the slightly overripe, viscous style. The '98 Barbieri came across as sweet, jammy and black peppery, with elevated, palate jarring acidity and wall-to-wall tannin -- my second favorite after the Gambogi. The Saitone heads into cranberry in '98 -- a combination of high acid, tannin edges, and sweet, fleshy, pumpkin pie spice fruitiness (an autumnal "high"?). And finally, past aficionados of the Papera should expect an oversized, broad, Port-like style -- with extremely ripe, sweet, vanilla bean and brown stick spice aromatics.

Final Notes: I tasted a most amazing '96 Martini & Prat Private Reserve Russian River Valley Zinfandel and Lisa Hemingway's restaurant in Santa Rosa (in a black hole of a location -- in a shopping center next to a Ross's and Safeway). But it was worth the trip -- the wine was perfectly sweet, jammy and luscious -- humming with Zin-ful fruit -- coming across as thick, round, plush and decadent. Certainly rivalling some of De Loach's '97s. In fact, I'm surprised Cecil hadn't already walked over and demanded the keys!