Is There A Difference Between Merlots?

[Randy Caparoso]

It is true that with all wines in current great demand, prices are inflated. Although gauging wine prices is forever a nebulous affair, one could say that a Merlot that you may see for about $20 is probably actually worth about $15. Top quality Zinfandels are probably $3-$4 more than they should be; and Cabernet Sauvignons, anywhere from $5 to $50.

Unfortunately, for West Coast brands, it doesn't mean that you can necessarily get a good deal with Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Barbera, Mourvedre, and Syrah, even though these varietals are not quite so "hot." California wines in general are currently overpriced. But that's the way it goes, right? Fifteen years ago this wasn't exactly the case; and we shall see what another ten-fifteen years will bring. Some people (like Curmudgeon) are predicting a price leveling much sooner; but I never hold my breath.

I think the important thing to remember is that "fantastic" Merlot has been known to occur at many price levels -- from $8 Stella (from Italy) to $800 Petrus (from Pomerol in France's Bordeaux region). How do we define it? Most everyone agrees that for Merlot, it's palate feel -- the taste of luscious, juicy, round, opulent fruit (like perfectly fresh -- not overripe or syrupy sweet -- dripping, fleshy cherries) without any rough or tough edges. Actual tannin level is not even the issue. At low tannin levels, the Stella delivers this flavor; and at high tannin levels, Petrus, Duckhorn and Beringer "Bancroft" do, too. Difficulties occur when vintners attempt to achieve the combination of lush fruit and full tannin like Petrus, but fall somewhat short in the fruit department. That's when you get thick but hard, tough, lean, even vegetal tasting bottlings, and what's the point of that? Might as well drink Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, where you're bound to get lots of toughness but probably more flavor interest.

At any rate, that's my take on the original question about what to expect in a "great Merlot." It's a good idea to read Jancis, but when it comes to selecting your Merlot you'll need some common sense, a modicum of experience and an open mind. In the end, nothing beats tried-and-true!