Is There A Difference Between Merlots?

[Randy Caparoso]

Well, I'm not exactly sure how Jancis will help you when you're walking into a store and facing a few thousand different bottles. She'll larn you about Merlot, but not how to pick'em.

For California ratings, there are number of good periodicals to read which also put related books you can find in your nearest good bookstore. The Wine Spectator, of course, as well as Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate and Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine.

For a paperback, for instance, The Connoisseurs' Handbook of the Wines of California and the Pacific Northwest (Alfred A. Knopf) put together by Norman Roby and Charles Olken is now in its third or fourth printing and update. These guys have been following California wine for years, and they can pretty much steer you to the best brands. As someone who's followed the scene for over 20 years myself, I can't really argue with their picks of the best California Merlot producers. Here are the ones I agree with, in roughly ascending order of greatness:

Beringer "Bancroft Ranch"
Lewis "Reserve"
Matanzas Creek
Cafaro
Chateau Ste. Michelle "Reserve"
Havens "Reserve"
Duckhorn
St. Clement
St. Francis "Reserve"
Arrowood
Leonetti
Robert Sinskey "RSV"
Swanson
Robert Mondavi
Shafer
Waterbrook
Pahlmeyer

This is as good a shopping list to start with as any. Generally speaking, the top growths receive lavish care in the vineyard and winery; this fact, plus the great demand, have effectively pushed their retail prices into the $18 to $40 range. Are they worth it? Yes, if you really like the juicy, sumptuously layered, "hedonistic" (as Parker would put it) feel and flavor of the best Merlots. You certainly can find some nice Merlots for $8 to $15, but generally speaking you can expect to find half or less the flavor -- or sometimes more vegetal than fruit (for Merlot, you want a lush, black cherry flavor) impressions -- in those wines. That's the difference.

Of course, as with all things, there are exceptions. Smart shoppers, for instance, know that a Waterbrook or Taft Street at about $10-$12 and a Swanson at about $22 often offer just as much flavor and plush nugget-ness as a Duckhorn or Cafaro at $35-$40. Recently, I enjoyed a supple, succulent '96 di Lorimer ($17-$19) from Alexander Valley, and the '96 Voss ($15-$17) is an absolute jewel (dripping with velvety, red fruit flavors) for the price.

Imports are extremely up-and-down. People talk about Chilean Merlots being great values; but for $8 to $14, you get what you pay for. One of my favorites, for instance, is the Veramonte from Casablanca, which goes for only about $9. It is nice, soft, and fruity, but also a tad herbaceous (veering towards olives and crushed, green eucalyptus -- which is fine if you don't think about "cat pee').

My favorite import come from Italy. You can't go wrong, for instance, with a Falesco (about $11) or Stella (about $7), which are both made from a master Umbrian winemaker named Riccardo Cotarella. These wines are as luscious as anything you'll find for $10, $15 more. In other words, you usually get what you pay for; but if you keep your eyes and ears open at all times, you can find some majorly great exceptions.

So what are waiting for? Go out and shop!