1997 Taurino Notarparano

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($11.99) a blend of negro-amaro and malvesia-nera grapes that has spent three years in french oak.

this wine is about licorice -- from start to finish. deep ruby color with a little browning around the edges. nose of black licorice, raisins and dark fruit. taste of licorice, black cherry and raisins, with hints of earth and spice. medium mouthfeel and a decent finish, with -- what else -- licorice lingering on the taste buds.

i've never had either of these varietals before, but the flavors remind me a bit of primitivo. i don't like licorice , yet i still enjoyed this wine. it's balanced and ready to drink, with nowhere to go but downhill. a nice alternative to chianti, with enough acidity to stand up to a red sauce and enough flavor handle a steak (with a tuscan spice rub, i'd suggest). RP rated this a 90. for me, that's too high (i'd give it an 85 or so), but this wine's certainly worth a try at the price.