Five decent Italian styled wines

[Bucko]

1998 Barone Ricasoli, Chianti Classico, DOCG, Castello di Brolio, Italy, $40. Deeply colored, with violet and black fruit aromas which are augmented by light vanilla and sandalwood notes. Full-bodied, with tannins that need bottle time, the lush fruit provides plenty of pleasure. Oak accentuates the wine rather than dominating it. 90+/89+.

1998 Barone Ricasoli, Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, Rocca Guicciarda, Italy, $19. Aromas of red cherries, berries and aged wood invite further exploration. Medium-weight, polished, and fruity, this wine begs to be paired with your favorite veal dish. 88/88.

2001 Ca' del Solo, Malvasia Bianca, Monterey, California, $12. Another fun wine from Randall Graham. Lime and lychee fruit scents accent this Malvasia, also known as Moscato greco in Piemonte. Flavorful, clean, crisp, and fruity, the wine almost seems dry despite the 1% residual sugar. This was a delightful match with Dungeness crab cakes. 88/90.

1999 La Famiglia (di Robert Mondavi), Colmera, Napa Valley, California, $40. Colmera is the flagship wine of La Famiglia. Reflecting a super-Tuscan philosophy, the wine is a blend of 75% Sangiovese, 22% Syrah and 3% Teroldego. Violets and black cherries battle for dominance of the nose, with cedar nuances sneaking in. Very focused, with brisk acidity, the tart cherry/berry flavors and integrated oak linger on the lengthy finish. 90/89.

2000 Luna, Sangiovese, Napa Valley, California, $18. Compared to the 99, the 00 is more tightly wound and more tannic. Ultimately, the 00 may be the better wine, but only time will tell. Either way, the 00 is a nice wine that needs time to tame the tannins. It is a nice match for grilled pork chops. 89/90.