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[Randy Caparoso]

I find the acidity of Charbono to be similar, although not quite as sharp, as a typical Barbera. Charbono also has a darker berry aroma -- with slightly "animal" like, gamey qualities -- whereas Barbera is more typically towards red fruits (cherry, raspberry, etc.). These qualities tend to give Charbono a broader, rounder feel, and Barbera a steelier, sharper edged, more dileneated profile.

I agree with you, Misterjive, that Refosco is another highly underrated varietal. While decidedly softer in acidity, its gentle tannins make it exceptionally food versatile. If you liked the Ca' del Solo Refosco, I'm sure you'll also enjoy the one under the Il Podere dell' Olivos label, made by Jim Clendenen at Au Bon climat. The fruit in this one is even brighter and fresher.

If you read your Jancis Robinson, you'll also find speculation that the Refosco is possibly related to the Mondeuse Noire of France's Savoie region. The French deny this, and judging from the taste of wines sold under the A.C. known as Arbin -- dense, juicy, but slightly bitter edged reds -- I would tend to agree with the French. Arbins resemble Refoscos in flavor, but not in structure.

Speaking of underappreciated Italian red varietals, here's another that we're seeing more of from both Italy and California: Teroldego. Check out the full, thick yet soft and lush Teroldego made by Il Podere dell' Olivos, and compare it to the rich, earthy, wonderfully soulful bottlings by Foradori in Trentino. Fascinating! Might even make you forget Charbono!