HOT TIP

[Randy Caparoso]

Back in town, Curmudgeon.

I actually had the '94 Via Firenze Charbono in Florida this past Feb., and thoroughly enjoyed it. My notes had it as rich in color, with slightly meaty, fleshy cherry fruit aromas; medium full, rounded, lightly tart (great for fresh cut tomato & herb sauces) with easy tannins. Exceptional drinking, and exceptional for Italianate foods, however shrouded its origin may be (Jancis Robinson cites a French ampelographer who theorizes -- without conclusive confirmation -- a connection between Italy's Dolcetto and the near extict Douce Noire or Charbonneau of France's Savoie).

By the way -- I rated the Via Firenze a VG-, and ended up putting it on our wine list in Bonita Springs, Florida.