Chianti

[Randy Caparoso]

Well, $40 is steep, but not outrageous in this day and age of Super Tuscans. So the price is neither good nor bad.

I've tasted the '90, which is a study in classic Riserva style -- bright, upbeat red/black cherry fragrance wrapped in subtle, vanillin oak, with woodsy nuances in the background. The body is medium, slightly meaty in texture, and the tannins firm but rounded, supportive, fine, almost sweet vanillin. It is not a "great" vintage, but a very good one -- therefore at its best now through the next few years -- and Ruffino is certainly always a classic in any given year.