Burgundy -- A Baker's Dozen

[Bucko]

2005 Domaine Charles Audoin, Les Longeroies, Marsannay, France, $40. An interesting nose of mushrooms and mixed red and black fruits, however the wine is very lean in the mouth, showing modest fruit and bright acids; 86/86.

2005 Domaine d’Ardhuy, Clos des Langres Monopole, Côte de Nuits, France, $50. The nose is loaded with fruit and oak, but wood dominates the palate right now, making it hard to evaluate; 86+/85+.

2005 Fougeray de Beauclair, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, France, $150. Black raspberries and forest floor notes on the nose, but is very tight on the palate. You can sense a lot of underpinning, and it will blossom with bottle time. The finish is lengthy but muted at this point; 91/89.

2004 Domaine Chateau de Chorey, Les Cras, Beaune 1er Cru, France, $56. This wine has way too much earthy, Brett-like funk for my palate. I cannot objectively rate this wine; Not Rated.

2005 Domaine Claude Dugat, Charmes Chambertin, France, $800. A complex nose of black fruits and a touch of earth is followed by limited palate revelations. It is tight and brooding, showing very little. I don’t know how to rate this wine at the moment, but the QPR is non-existent; Not Rated.

2004 Domaine Michel Gay, Chorey-Lès-Beaune, France, $32. Ripe red and black cherry fruit intermingles on the nose and palate. Tannins are drying and there is not a lot of depth to the wine; 85/85.

2005 Domaine Aleth Girardin, Epenots, Pommard 1er Cru, France, $90. A very earthy style of wine, with mushrooms and underbrush right up front. You can sense are a lot of things going on here, but it is very tight right now. Age will blossom out this wine to a real beauty; 91/90.

2005 Maison Camille Giroud, Cent Vignes, Beaune 1er Cru, France, $NA. The nose is a nice mix of black fruit, barnyard and oak. Full and lush in the mouth, the wine has great length and depth. Well made and delicious; 93/NA.

2005 Domaine Phillippe & Vincent Lecheneaut, Les Pruliers, Nuits St.-Georges Premier Cru, France, $60. A well-structured wine, with bright acidity acidity and black cherry fruit. Tight and unrevealing presently; 88/87.

2005 Domaine Jacques Prieur, Beaune Grèves 1er Cru, France, $80. Youthful fruit with just a hint of barnyard qualities unfold on the nose. Very polished on the entry, with mid-range acidity and firm but not overbearing tannins. This should age well; 89/88.

2005 Domaine Marc Roy, Clos Prieur, Gevrey-Chambertin, France, $55. Earthy, berry aromas give way to black fruit in the mouth, with good acidity and structural tannins. It has a nice, long, expanding finish – it only needs bottle time; 90/90.

2005 Domaine Thierry Violot-Guillemard, Rugiens, Pommard 1er Cru, France, $85. Pretty classic barnyardy characteristics present upfront, with a mix of red and black fruit. This lush wine shows nice depth, with a long finish and firm, rounded tannins; 90/89.

2005 Joseph Voillot, Les Champans, Volnay Premier Cru, France, $80. The nose shows black fruit with a touch of banana and floral qualities. Nice balance and acidity, with manageable tannins, but not showing a lot of depth at this point; 88/87.