What the !@#$%^&*!? has happened to California Chardonnay? (A rant)

[Randy Caparoso]

Ouch. But I didn't say I personally drink Turning Leaf. Here's how our wine list in Honolulu reads on this night of August 6:

1997 Woodward Canyon "Celilo" Chardonnay
1997 Ken Wright "Celilo" Chardonnay
1997 Ken Wright "Dijon Clone" Chardonnay
1997 Fess Parker Santa Barbara Chardonnay
1997 De Loach Russian River Valley Chardonnay
1997 Landmark "Overlook" Chardonnay
1996 Murphy-Goode "Island Block" Chardonnay
1997 Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay
1996 Chalk Hill "Estate Vineyard Selection" Chardonnay
1997 Neyers "Thieriot" Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
1996 Ramey "Hyde" Carneros Chardonnay
1995 D'Arenberg "The Olive Grove" McLaren Vale Chardonnay
1996 Sandalford Western Australia Chardonnay
1997 Roy's (Au Bon Climat) Santa Barbara Chardonnay

No more, no less. Are these wines oaky and filled with maximum lactic acid? I'm ashamed to say -- across the board, yes. Are they smooth as pie? You betcha! Do they go with even Asian spiced fish in butter sauces? What's not to like?

Furthermore, we've gotten along quite fine without grotesquely overpriced Chablis, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, etc. over the past five-ten years. Tens of thousands can't be wrong!