What the !@#$%^&*!? has happened to California Chardonnay? (A rant)

[Randy Caparoso]

"Abused?" Truly, we are at some odds. Surely, thousands of producers, and tens of thousands of consumers, can't possibly be that wrong about this. Namely, the fact that the qualities of Chardonnay are enhanced by the generous use of oak, new and old. Maybe my mind is overly constrained by the realities of market. But I don't think so. I may not drink a lot of Chardonnay, but my palate and instinct tells me that I'm probably right.

And just because well oaked Chardonnay doesn't go great with oysters, or pan roasted trout, doesn't mean it's wrong. Cabernet Sauvignon tastes horribly with that, but it's still a decent wine.

In food contexts, the qualities of full scaled Chardonnays entail not only the creamy/vanillin and toasy/smoky/charred flavors of oak, but also a fleshier, more amplified sense of body and texture, in addition to a small degree of tannin. It is as easy to pair such wines with food as, for instance, a Cabernet Sauvignon. Foods, in fact, which would be far better off with a generously oaked Chardonnay than a lighter, purer fruit style Chardonnay.

Take simple, everyday roasted chicken, for instance, with its dripping oils and buttery, fleshy flavors. American households are far more apt to be serving the unbiquitous roaster than raw oysters, trout or veal. Add a pungent herb like tarragon and thyme, and you definitely have a dish that is far better with a full, viscous, butter/creamy oaked Chardonnay than a light, lemony Chablis. In respect to other birds, I don't know what you drink for Thanksgiving but when it comes to wood smoked turkey with rich stuffings (sage, oysters, nuts, sausages, whatever), a charred, smoky Chardonnay beats any other white (if you're having white) any time.

Other food contexts in which generously oaked Chardonnays outshine other whites include osso buco style veal (in white wine veal stocks studded with one green herb or another), sweetbreads, lusher white fish like Hawaiian snapper (opakapaka), white seafood sausages (especially when truffled or with pistachios), and even things like stuffed poblanos with tropical fruit salsas. In any "white wine dish" that include mixes of pungent mushrooms (shiitakes, chanterelles, etc.), or the slight bitterness and charred aromas of wood grilling or wood smoking, generously charred Chardonnay simply make a lot more sense than wines without that influence. Recently a bunch of us were absolutely shocked, in fact, during a meal prepared by a master sushi maker when we found that a smoky Chardonnay went a lot better than a Riesling and Champagne (also on our table) with certain courses served with earthy ponzu and creamy white moto sauces, and especially sushi with aromatic, black, toasted sesame seeds. In retrospect, it made sense, but it was certainly unexpected.

I could go on and on, but I'm already belaboring the point: heavily oaked Chardonnay is not only not such a bad thing, it can be very good!

But the use of oak is not only relegated to Chards among whites. Murphy-Goode, for instance, has been making unabashedly oaked, and undeniably superior, Sauvignon Blancs for years. So has Mondavi. Three weeks ago I was in Baden, and was absolutely floored by a set of generously oaked, barrel fermented Pinot Gris and Pinot Blancs crafted by Joachim Heger. How can you argue when the traditional oak regime brings out far more in any grape in respect to breadth, feel, intensity, and yes, even balance and harmony? The food affinity part, I never worry about. Like I said, it's easy enough to find something for everything.