Zemmer

[Randy Caparoso]

Figured so much. Just couldn't help philosophizing on oak in Italian whites. Getting back to your Chilean question: Have you tried the Veramonte Chardonnay from Casablanca Valley? Very reasonable ($8-$10), with quite pure, minerally varietal fruit qualities, smooth and balanced on the palate, and completely unfettered by the splintered wood feel. I've found it to be fresher than the Santa Rita's. The one to approach carefully, however, is the Casa Lapostolle Chard -- very, very toasty/oaky, and a little herbal, too, although unusually round and viscous for a Chilean.

But generally I think think that almost as a rule Chardonnay benefits texturally from oak; particularly barrel fermentation (unless you're Chablisienne). The full treatment -- natural yeast, ML, battonage, etc. -- can be done quite nicely without the actual "taste" of wood coming through. The best examples I can think of are the Ken Wright Oregon "Dijon 76 Clone" and the Frog's Leap from Carneros. I don't think these Chards taste oaky at all, but they sure are fine and pretty.