Zemmer

[Randy Caparoso]

Don't know about the "oak bomb" problem, because I don't think oak in, say, Italian whites are necessarily bad. Only if they "taste" oaky; i.e. like chewing on a piece of stick. But if they're aged and even barrel fermented in oak in order to achieve breadth and texture WITHOUT the oaky taste, they can be quite beautiful in oak.

Cases in point: The '96 Zenato Lugana Riserva (single vineyard 100% Trebbiano from the Soave Classico region), and the '96 Anselmi Soave Classico "Capitel Croce" (100% Garganega). Both are made from indigenous grapes not associated with oak treatment, but benefit tremendously from barrel fermentation and judicious aging in French oak. Both lively and fresh (as well they should be, but in their own way), yet fleshed out and made considerably more interesting with just whiffs of smoke and cream.

Another recent interesting encounter: Happened to be tasting through 20 new Italian whites, rated most of them as "okay as usual," but came across one that was extra, extra special -- the '96 "Where Dreams" Chardonnay by Jermann in Friuli. Gorgeous, pure, fresh, airy, apple aroma with pillowy soft creamy qualities -- like dew from heaven -- and tasting lithe, long and oh-so-elegant. I bet any money -- judging from the structural qualities -- that this wine saw French oak, but it was certainly no dreaded "oak bomb." The bad part was that I asked about the price -- retails for about $50! Like finding the most beautiful woman in the world, and then finding out that she is very much married to a far, far better man than you. Ouch!