A few recent Cabs

[Bucko]

2002 Beringer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Private Reserve, Napa Valley, California, $116, 14,200 cases. The nose is a pleasant mix of cassis, cedar, vanilla and brown sugar. The wine is impeccably balanced in the mouth. Bing cherries, vanilla and French oak linger on the finish; 89/87.

2003 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Canoe Ridge Estate, Columbia Valley, Washington, $22, 6,000 cases. The wine is very elegant on the entry, then wham - the tannins say hello. This definitely needs cellar time, which should then reward you with its black cherries, cedar, and warm spice flavors; 88/89.

2003 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cold Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley, Washington, $25, 8,500 cases. The wine is defined by black fruit, currants, a hint of anise, and new oak. Tannins are pretty hearty, but manageable; 87/87.

2003 Kenwood, Cabernet Sauvignon, Jack London Vineyard, Sonoma County, California, $30, 12,800 cases. Loads of blackberries, tobacco and cedary aromas delight the nose, with just a twist of mint. Medium to full on the palate, the fruit, acid and tannins all sing in harmony here. Black fruit echoes on the lengthy finish; 89/89.