Top 16 California Cabs

[Randy Caparoso]

Wow! I can't believe there's so much agreement! Of course, there could be switching around of places. But here's my thinking:

1. Insignia's really great. But after doing a couple of verticals, I start to find them inconsistent (on an extremely high level, of course). But now I feel guilty, since even Monte Bello has its ups and downs. But I guess what I'm talking about is sometimes odd shifts in style and focus about the Insignia's. That's what keeps me from putting it above things like Opus One (which although not a personal favorite, is very, very consistent in both style and quality).

2. I was absolutely sure one of you would notice the absence of Chateau Montelena (and Diamond Creek, for that matter). Frankly, the "personal" feeling prevailed. I tend to find the Montelena a little brutal in tannin and tightness. I don't really enjoy drinking them. Maybe I don't eat enough chunks of rare steak, but it's really not my cup of... Cab.

3. I think Dominus in the '90s is improving -- marvelous structure and flesh. But like the Montelena, it is still a little tougher than it has to be. In my book, at least.

4. I was also wondering if you'd notice the movement of Rubicon up the list. Two years ago, it wouldn't have made my Top 30. But the '93, '94 and '95... bing, bang, boom! The enormous depth, concentration and breed associated with the vineyard is suddenly being presented in an incredibly balanced, seamless package. I realize that I'm probably prejudiced, since I loved the minty-cedary/blackcurranty "Rutherford" taste of the old Inglenook Casks. Nice to have it back in such sleek, spiffy new dress!

5. Can't argue with your assessment of the Simi "Reserve," Curmudgeon. It's just not as flashy as some of the other wines on the list. But the Ferrari-Carano "Tresor Reserve"... that, I'd have to go back to. I love George Bursick's work, but he's always had too much of of a lean, tough touch with the reds for me. Maybe I'm missing something in the latest vintages.

6. Etude is the one other Cabernet Sauvignon that I truly believe belongs. Heck, throw Corison in there, too. But in the end I left them out because their production is so small, it's always cruel to even talk about them (and remember, this was for a large daily newspaper).

Anyhow, that's my thinking.