Cal Cabs Thrashed In Decanter!

[Randy Caparoso]

Now that we've come to some agreement, Van, it's confession time: I NEVER buy wines like Caymus Special Selection. In fact, I never drink them -- I just come across them in tastings. I have to say they're great because obviously lots of people say that, I'm a little too humble to say that they're wrong (believe it or not).

Although I'm actually a Pinot and Zin man myself, I do have some favorite California Cab growths (which are invariably the ones you see on my wine lists). In descending order:

1. Viader (the ideal for me -- sleek, elegant, balanced, buoyant)

2. Ridge Monte Bello (can be big and muscular, but still very elegant and deep)

3. Rubicon (that is, the bright, fleshy '93, '94 and probably future vintages only of this vineyard of great breeding -- the previous ones we're thick and mean)

4. Laurel Glen Sonoma Mountain (love its roundness and dense juiciness)

So these four probably sum up my personal taste, and tell you about me -- which is all about feel and texture, which I value above even sheer intensity, intrinsic balance, and (as you know) longevity. I also tend to like (but not buy so often) Corison, Etude, Spottswoode, and Shafer Hillside; and I find the Quintessa project to be a little more interesting than, say, the Mondavi Reserves and Opus Ones (the latter two, which I tend to find almost too finely sculpted... veering on soulessness).

As for Bordeaux, my all time favorites are probably the Pichons -- Lalande and Baron (such sass and succulence, besides class). Lynch Bages is also good for me. Margaux is the best (but of course, unaffordable); and the best of the affordables is Haut Marbuzet. That's me in a clamshell!