Cal Cabs Thrashed In Decanter!

[Randy Caparoso]

Van,

We're getting into some real grey areas here, since you obviously like Greysac, Dauzac, La Cardonne, etc. Where we differ is that I do NOT think these wines are worth $15, $18, $25 or whatever. I happen to think that B.V. Rutherford and Chateau Souverain, pound for pound, are better; and that Greysac and their like taste, to me, like $8-$10 wine.

So granted that there is such a thing as a "Bordeaux taste" and a "California Cab" (especially if you measure wine -- as most people DON'T -- purely on the basis of longevity), as someone who truly ultimately prefers the taste of Bordeaux, I'll still stand by my broad statement that Bordeaux cru are generally $10 to $20 more than California Cabs of like quality (I've done enough blind tastings over the past 20 years to prove it to myself). Furthermore, although you may spend $30 to $75 for top drawer California Cabernet, Bordeaux grand crus of like quality (but not the same, of course) are anywhere from $40 to $150!

Let's put this another way: I agree that California Cabs are generally overpriced; but for a good 20 years or so, Bordeaux crus have been WAY overpriced... and getting worse.

Now foodie: There's no question that in most parts of the world, Cabernet Sauvignon is delicious when blended with Merlot, Franc, Malbec, etc. But it's just too simplistic to say that ALL Cabernet Sauvignon is best blended. Who am I, for instance, to argue with the great Andre Tchelistcheff who throughout his lifetime in California could never find a blend in his particular part of Napa Valley that was anywhere near as good as his 100% Georges de Latour? In the Alexander Valley, by the same token, Justin Meyer's Silver Oaks would most likely be diminished, rather than improved, by the use of blending grapes.

In fact, no matter what the Brits or French may say, generally speaking in California the best Cabernets have been those wines pretty much close to 100% varietal. I'm not saying that Quintessa and Opus One aren't darn good. But ask yourself in all honesty: do you really like them better than Caymus Special Selection, Beringer Private Reserve, Ridge Monte Bello, and other top echelon Californians?

Here's another way of looking at it: things like Mouton and Petrus are pretty close to 100% varietals. Should we be so bold as to suggest that they should use more blending grapes? Of course not, because like Silver Oak, B.V. Private Reserve, etc., these French chateaux are defined by what they are. So why mess a good thing up?

The overall question should always be: does it taste good, and is the price fair for what you want? Well, it seems to me that there are a lot of people who think a $55 Ridge Monte Bello is worth the price; in fact, a better buy than a $155 Latour. Sure, the Latour is likely to prove better in 20 years. But who's waiting that long?