Cal Cabs Thrashed In Decanter!

[Randy Caparoso]

First of all, I don't dig any wine that I perceived as overpriced; but like everyone else, I give a lot of leeway to the established "giants" of the Cab world (Mouton, Ridge Monte Bello, Penfolds 707, etc.). Give these guys their just due.

However, I can only give a snort and a hoot whenever I read blanket statements that "California wines are overpriced when compared to wines from France, Chile, Australia, etc." And what do Brits know about Safeway and corner wine store price tags in America? Do they push their carts down our aisles? What they say may pertain to what they see in their Oddbins or what-not, but certainly not to the average American wine drinker.

Because our situation is such that: To get anything near the quality or even "breed" of a $14-$20 B.V. Rutherford, Chateau Souverain, Buena Vista, or a Gallo Barrelli, you have to spend at least $30 for anything from Bordeaux. $14-$20 Bordeaux crus certainly exist, but frankly I find them closer to Vendange and Napa Ridge in quality, which we can get for $5.99!

Medium to top drawer Bordeaux was overpriced 20 years ago, and they're even more overpriced now!

Australian Cabernets, on the other hand, I have to admit are still currently underpriced, as a rule. Chilean Cabs -- while decent drinking, other than Patrick Campbell's Terra Rosa (one of the best buys in the world today, period) I'd have to say that although Chileans are generally priced at $8 to $12, they also taste like $8 to $12 -- usually, more thin and vegetal than anything else.

Back to the Brits: One of the MWs commented that the greatest must-to-avoids (I think Herman's Hermits coined the phrase) are Cabernets from the Russian River Valley. They only tasted two (both by De Loach). Granted, even though most of us do not associated the Russian River with Cabernet Sauvignon, to comment that "all Russian River Cab should be pulled out and replanted with plum trees" based upon only two samples is just, well, asinine. Whatever happened to English logic? Besides, how many of us who have tasted De Loach's OFS Cab can honestly say it is such awful stuff? In fact, it's pretty good in its own way. On the other hand, I've tasted tons of Bordeaux crus, for instance, that reminded me of drippings of old VW bus engine oil, but I would never suggest to these hard working vintners that they should pull out the vines from their centuries old estates just because they churned out a bad vintage or two (or more)!

What do they teach'em these days in MW school?

How about something positive? Well, I subscribe to Decanter precisely because they give me a different perspective. I've always thought, for instance, that Paso Robles Cabernets (especially Justin's sleek, elegant style) have been disgracefully underrated by our own press (who are obviously obsessed by size and glamour -- particular that of Napa Valley's). It was gratifying to read the Brits' comments on those wines.

And lately, there have been a few California producers -- such as Jordan and Clos du Bois -- who probably have not been quite living up to their reputation in recent years. Not that things can't be turned back around. But leave it to those stern and unruly Brits to call a spade a spade.

But statements like, "until Californians embrace a global marketing strategy these wines are going to remain poor value" -- oh, spare us! Low to medium priced California Cabernets have always provided wine drinkers with respite from all the ugly stuff France used to send over. Superpremium Cabs, of course, are soaring into mad and crazy levels. But it's nowhere the French grand crus, with their ocean of suppy, haven't already been long before!