sulfite-headache myth debunked

[Thomas]

The following is an email conversation I had with the author of a new book: What Einstein Told His Cook. Thought you might find it interesting.

Form me to Robert L Wolke


"Great book--What Einstein Told His Cook.

Throughout the book you offer scientific explanations to change a variety of misconceptions connected to food and to cooking, and for that I was quite pleased with the book.

A great deal of misinformation about sulfites in wine abounds (some of it perpetrated by groups with anti-agendas) . In your book you echo the claim that sulfites cause headaches, but this is one case where you offer no scientific reason.

I am an ex-winemaker and now a wine purveyor. I am aware that asthmatics can react to free sulfites, but that is a respiratory matter. I have yet to find scientific evidence to support the claim that sulfites cause headaches. Can you please cite the scientific proof that led you to make the statement in your book?

Thank you,"

Author's response to me:

"Glad you're enjoying the book.

I included headache among the possible symptoms because it is often included in anecdotal accounts (not even counting the often-hysterical stories of the anti's). True, I have not found any direct medical connection in the literature. Of course, people do get headaches from (too much) wine, and "sulfite" is an easy scapegoat. Because I'm aware of no controlled headache studies that either implicate or absolve sulfites, I thought I'd leave it in the list. Probably poor judgment, I admit. Maybe I can fix it in a subsequent edition.
--RLW"

My response to author's response:

"Mr. Wolke,

No longer enjoying your book--enjoyed it. But I suppose if I go back to a book once in a while to refresh, then I am still enjoying it.

Thanks for your response. I am both pleased and saddened that you have come across no scientific evidence to back up the headache and sulfite connection; pleased it still has yet to prove true; saddened that even though you knew it is only anecdotal you chose to put it in the book. To paraphrase Frost, "there's something about a myth..."

I brought the matter up because I teach about wine and its many components. The most oft asked question deals with sulfites, and so many people claim to be getting headaches from sulfites without ever seeking a medical opinion--they just mouth what they have heard. What truly makes me crazy are the MDs who tell people who complain of headache that they are likely allergic to sulfites in wine. By volume, there is generally more sulfite in packaged baked goods than in wine, not to mention that sulfites are produced naturally in cheese, yogurt, and bread.

It is likely that headaches from red wine are the result of chemicals in the grape skins that produce histamine build-up in the sinus area. It is also likely that the people who complain of headaches simply drink too much. Based on the volume of sulfites consumed in other foods, it is far less likely that sulfites in wine cause headaches."