Three recent Eyetalians

[Bucko]

2003 Castello di Gabbiano, Alleanza, I.G.T. Rosso di Toscana, Italy, $35. Full, rich and ripe in the mouth, plums, berries, leather and French oak define the wine. Robust tannins demand cellar time; 88/88.

2005 Castello di Gabbiano, Chianti, DOCG, Italy, $10. Red cherries, plums and leather underscore the wine. Crisp, with modest tannins, this medium-bodied Chianti will pair nicely with pasta and meat sauce; 84/86.

2005 Castello di Gabbiano, Chianti Classico, DOCG, Italy, $13. The nose is highlighted by blackberry, cedar and floral notes. Elegant on the entry, the wine is medium bodied and crisp; 85/86.