Three dandy sissy whites

[Bucko]

1999 Shafer, Chardonnay, Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros, California, $38. Very elegant, concentrated, and creamy. Sweet oak, ripe apples, and tropical fruit play out on the extremely long finish. 90/89.

1999 Keenan, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California, $20, 1,560 cases. The apples, apricots and citrus on the nose are accentuated by the crisp, clean structure and full fruit flavors. The finish is long and refreshing. 89/90.

2000 Acacia, Chardonnay, Carneros, California, $21, 42,000 cases. Aromas of pears, honey, nutmeg spice and vanilla please the senses. Weighty on the palate, the wine is rich and elegant, with layers of ripe fruit and spice. Creamy vanilla custard is realized on the long finish. 88/88.