For the past decade, no winery has appeared more often on my personal "Best Buy" list than Napa Ridge, and it has become the value darling of all wine media.

    Napa Ridge Pinot Noir has won more gold medals in recent years than any other Pinot Noir at any price, and the other varieties win their share of medals and accolades as well.

    Napa Ridge is owned by Beringer Wine Estates, which enhances its ability to buy good fruit throughout the North Coast and the rest of California. And winemaker David Schlottman seems to have the magic touch.

    Napa Ridge 1997 "North Coast" Triad ($9) This wine is a blend of three of the world's best white wine grapes, Chardonnay (60 percent), Sauvignon Blanc (21 percent) and Semillon (19 percent. The majority of the blend is barrel-fermented. Chardonnay dominates and there's very nice oak vanillin qualities. Semillon adds richness; Sauvignon Blanc adds crispness. Rating: 88/90

    Napa Ridge 1997 "North Coast" Chardonnay ($10) My least favorite wine in the line. There's decent fruit and it's nicely oaked, but it's also in the threshold sweetness style with a hint of astringency showing through the finish. Rating: 82/82

    Napa Ridge 1997 "North Coast" Pinot Noir ($11) America's consistently best value Pinot Noir. Medium bodied, rich cherry fruit; delicious. Is it as wonderful as some previous vintages? Not quite. Rating: 90/90

    Napa Ridge 1996 "North Coast" Zinfandel ($10) Just released, this wine will lay claim to the title of best value red Zin in America. There's 10 percent Petite Sirah in this wine that is predominately from Lake and Sonoma County fruit. Aged in a combination of French and American oak, it shows both red and riper black raspberry fruit of medium to full intensity. A one word description? Juicy! Very user friendly. Rating: 89/94

BEST BUY
WINE OF THE WEEK

    Napa Ridge 1996 "Central Coast" Cabernet Sauvignon ($10) What a steal. This is the showpiece wine in the Napa Ridge line this year. Sells for $10...tastes like $20. Rich black raspberry and cassis aromas and flavors. Very full, round and supple in the mouth. A totally satisfying red wine experience. Rating: 90/96

    Napa Ridge wines have broad national distribution and are as likely to be found in supermarkets as at fine wine shops and restaurants. For help tracking down specific wines call Napa Ridge at (707) 857-4459.

   

FRANCISCAN SALE

  One of the jewels of Napa Valley, along other properties it had acquired or created, has been sold. Canandaigua Brands, only days after announcing its purchase of super-premium Sonoma winery Simi, announced its purchase of Franciscan Oakville Estate in Napa Valley, Estancia (with properties in Sonoma and Monterey) and prestigious Mt. Veeder with mountain vineyards and winery also in Napa Valley.

    Purchased from the Eckes family of Germany and their Napa Valley partners the Agustin Huneeus family (originally from Chile), the sale does not include the vineyard estate Quintessa nor the Huneeus' interest in a Chilean property called Veramonte, though Canandaigua will have marketing rights to those brands.

    Huneeus, considered one of the brightest minds in the wine business, will remain involved under contract for at least five years as "Vintner Chairman" of the entire Franciscan Estates project. Additionally, he will invest in building a winery on the site of the Quintessa vineyards, which his family will operate.

    It was further reported that the Simi wines will be sold nationally by the Franciscan Estates marketing team, rather than by other branches of the Canandaigua operation.

    There is always concern when large corporations buy premium wine estates. There have been many examples of such entities exploiting famous brands for large volume sales while allowing quality to suffer horribly.

    Two factors are at play here that may make this the exception to the rule. It has long been known that Canandaigua wanted badly to be a player in the super-premium wine business, so hopefully, now that they are, they won't screw it up. And the Huneeus factor...that the man whose vision created Franciscan as the entity we know, has been retained to be at the helm for a considerable period of time.

   

A PAIR OF WHITES

  Chalone Vineyards was like the original boutique winery. Chalone as it is known today dates back to the mid-sixties, but the vineyard's history goes back to the 40s.

    It is a mountain vineyard above the Salinas Valley at an elevation where moisture was so scarce they used to haul water to the vines in tank trucks.

    Chalone is most famous for three wines, all Burgundian: Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. It's the whites we're talking about today. Did I mention Chalone wines are not inexpensive?

    Chalone 1997 "Estate" Chardonnay ($31) Very attractive, smoke-tinged bouquet, on soft apple fruit with a hint of pear. Lots of oak, but very refined and superbly integrated with the lean fruit. Rating: 90/83

    Chalone 1994 "Reserve" Pinot Blanc ($26) Beautifully complete, Burgundian style white wine. Melon fruit; barrel-sweet and rich; toasty, a little smoky, with very long and complex after-flavors. Very special. Don't miss this one. Rating: 97/85

    Chalone wines are found almost exclusively in fine wine shops or restaurants. To track down nearest retail outlet: Chalone Wine Group (707) 254-4200.

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.