David Coleman, winemaker and co-owner of Sonoma County's Adler Fels Winery, has a track record for three things...making award winning Fume Blanc year after year, designing trend-setting labels (he did the original Chateau St. Jean label, for example) and making statements about wine that are less than political.

    His description of French Champagne as being made from "underripe grapes and cane sugar" didn't set well with either the French or wine traditionalists. I should add that there's always a little twinkle in Coleman's eyes that makes you wonder how seriously he believes whatever outrageous thing he's saying at the moment.

    His latest offering combines pretty much all the things he is noted for, a wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, an outrageous name, a very dramatic label and back label copy that would have been great if he hadn't  "wimped" out. Coleman must be mellowing out.

    The wine is called "Adulteress" and features a label with a 40's "film noir" look femme fatale (think a very young Patricia Neal) in sepia tones but with bright red lipstick and what may be the first modern-day label with the subject on the label smoking a cigarette.

    Coleman ended up with some rather bland copy on the back label talking about the blend in sort of typical wine-speak adjectives. The following two paragraphs is what he really thought and what the old Dave would have printed:

    Adler Fels Fume Blanc has for years been the most awarded in California. The success of this wine has always been attributed to our ability to maintain the intense grassy and herbaceous character of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. However, certain wine publications over the years have chosen to acclaim adulterated Sauvignon Blancs where the personality of the wine was blended out with some neutral wine such as Chardonnay or Semillon. We give up! Here, for your enjoyment is our first adulterated Sauvignon Blanc.

    "The Adulteress"...79 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 14 percent Chardonnay, 7 percent Semillon and 45 percent barrel fermented. Rich, round and ripe on the palate, tempered with sweet oak, packed with peach and pear flavors and having absolutely nothing to do with what Sauvignon Blanc really tastes like!

WHITE WINE OF THE WEEK

    Adler Fels 1997 "Adulteress" Sauvignon Blanc ($14) The perfect white wine for your next illicit affair...or any affair for that matter. While we admire Adler Fels intensely grassy Fumes, we also very much enjoy this elegantly blended wine. The Chardonnay does tone down the aggressive grassy flavors, and adds a bit of apple which ends up as vanilla-tinged grapefruit. We didn't get anything so rich as peach, but perhaps a little tree-ripened fig? Where the traditional Fume might best be matched to white fishes in lemony sauces, Adulteress will hold up to salmon or veal piccata. Rating: 90/85

    Adler Fels is a small winery with fairly broad national availability. For more information on specific retail availability: Adler Fels, 5325 Corrick Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95409 (707) 539-3123.

   

GUNDLACH-BUNDSCHU UPDATE

  That small Sonoma County winery that folks seem to have trouble pronouncing is a classic example of a family owned, vineyard-driven operation. That means they are grapegrowers first, and that the fruit they cultivate tells them what kind of wine to make and how much of it.

    At big corporate wineries the marketing department decides how much Chardonnay they can sell and the winemakers have to seek out enough grapes from whatever source to satisfy that number.

    It's pronounced "gooned-lock bunned-shoe" by the way and the vineyards and winery have a history that dates back to 1858.

    The wines have broad national distribution: Gundlach-Bundschu, P.O. Box 1, Vineburg, CA 95487 (707) 938-5277.

    G-B 1997 "Sonoma Valley" Chardonnay ($16) Very crisp citrus style featuring flavors of lemon and fresh pineapple. Lacks oak presence for today's market. It's a good food companion, but won't be winning any medals. Rating: 85/84

    G-B 1997 "Sonoma" Gewurztraminer ($14) Rose oil and spice; lichee and grapefruit. Dry but not austere. Fruit lasts all the way to the very lengthy finish. Great with Asian or Cajun cuisines. Rating: 91/84

    G-B 1996 "Sonoma" Pinot Noir ($16) Berry and crushed rose. Good fruit throughout; medium bodied style. Match with tuna or prime rib. Rating: 86/84

    G-B 1996 "Sonoma" Merlot ($21) A Merlot with some backbone. Very ripe, bold black cherry flavor with green olive undertones. Some tannin but not offensively astringent. Serve with lean lamb chops. Rating: 86/84

    G-B 1996 "Sonoma" Cabernet Sauvignon ($22) A real mouthful of blackberry and cassis. Flavors enter boldly and then grow in intensity. A bit of herbaceousness joins the flavor spectrum in the finish. Drink now or cellar for ten years or more. Rating: 94/86

    G-B 1996 "Sonoma" Zinfandel ($18) All about berries. No prunes. No raisins. No jam. But no wimp either. Substantial fruit and flavor. Bring on the barbecue! Rating: 88/88

BEST BUY
RED WINE OF THE WEEK

    Gundlach-Bundschu 1996 "Sonoma" Cabernet Franc ($16) Gorgeous violet aroma. This 100 percent varietal wine has intense flavors of plum and black currant fruit. Very youthful and just a little grapey still, the balance and mouthfeel is near-perfect. Should improve for at least ten  years. Case purchases recommended. Rating: 94/90

Subscription Information

Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.