Chateau Souverain may not be "the" most underrated winery in Sonoma County, but it's sure in the top five or ten. Simi, Sonoma Creek, Rodney Strong and Pedroncelli are others which always belong on such a list as "Rodney Dangerfields" of wine.

    And I'm only talking about Souverain's basic line today, the "Reserves" get overlooked too.

    Not only do the wines deserve special attention, they deserve additional kudos for unique packaging, a special faceted bottle which always makes me think of crystal. I've never liked the flange-topped bottles used by some wineries, which have always looked cheap to me, but facets I go for.

    Chateau Souverain 1997 "Alexander Valley" Chardonnay ($13) One hundred percent barrel fermented, with more than one-third of the barrels brand new French oak. Big melon fruit (think Crenshaw) with very rich oak vanillin. Dry, but with a sweetish impression from the fruit and oak. There's a slight awareness of alcohol. Rating: 85/86

    Chateau Souverain 1996 "Dry Creek" Zinfandel ($11) Boysenberry and raspberry fruit and not a lot of wood. Lean, claret style. A wine designed for food, like lamb chops, barbecue, or maybe blackened salmon. Rating: 86/89

    Chateau Souverain 1996 "Alexander Valley" Merlot ($18) Big, juicy black cherry flavors. More about fruit than wood. Very enjoyable now, but should cellar nicely for at least five years. A serious structure with a firm but not astringent tannic background provides character and will contribute to longevity. Rating: 88/84

BEST BUY
WHITE WINE OF THE WEEK

    Chateau Souverain 1998 "Alexander Valley" Sauvignon Blanc ($9 or less) This is an unprecedented third perfect score for Sauvignon Blanc that I've given in the past six months, and they've all come from Sonoma County (the other two were 1997 Geyser Peak and 1996 Simi)! This is one beautiful and thoroughly delicious white wine. Every sip demands another. One hundred percent barrel-fermented, but only aged in barrel for about four months, so wood is not a major component of either bouquet or taste. Grapefruit and grapefruit zest, with some additional citrus (maybe just a hint of tangerine) and a little orange blossom aromatic. Dry but fruity to the point you could imagine a bit of sweetness. Winemaker Ed Killian wants to drink it with a lime-based civiche. The winery's publicist sees it with oysters on the half-shell. What pops up as my culinary vision is an old-fashioned, Sole Veronique, with extra grapes, please. Case purchases highly recommended. You won't tire of this one. Rating: 100/96

BEST BUY
RED WINE OF THE WEEK

   

Chateau Souverain 1996 "Alexander Valley" Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) Big, lush, blackberry and cassis, very ripe aromas and flavors...but it stays this side of overripe. Very intense, almost concentrated with earthy, woody complexity. Certain of its components will make you think of Bordeaux, though few of those French wines ever reach this standard of richness and ripeness. A thoroughly satisfying red wine experience that I would fancy in the company of a New York Steak au poivre vert (green peppercorn sauce), a duck loin with a savory (not sweet) sauce, or perhaps one of those farm raised venison loin chops coming in from New Zealand. Immediately delicious, but with the potential to improve well into the 21st century. Rating: 96/90

    Chateau Souverain wines have broad national distribution and a spectacular visitor facility in Northern Sonoma County. For assistance finding specific wines or to arrange visits: Chateau Souverain, Box 528, Geyserville, CA 95411 (707) 433-8281.

   

RANDOM BEST BUYS

  Sometimes I can go weeks without finding a real bargain, and then I'll get on streaks where it seems like every cork I pull reveals another "Best Buy." Right now they're piling up. Get ready to shop!

    Santa Sofia 1996 Pinot Grigio ($9 or less) From Romeo & Juliet country, this wine is grown very near the beautiful city of Verona. Riper and fleshier than many Italian Pinot Grigios, it still has that crispness that makes them so ideal with all kinds of seafood, especially shellfish. There's a touch of pear fruit, a bit of mineral complexity and enough structure to satisfy a Chardonnay drinker. Case purchases recommended. Rating: 88/90

    Geyser Peak 1997 "California" Johannisberg Riesling ($7) What a deal! Dedicated to summer. Flavors of apple, peach and nectarine with just discernible sweetness. Great cocktail or poolside wine and perfect with brunch. If your store already has the 1998 vintage, it is equally good. Rating: 86/98

    Terra Del Barolo 1996 Dolcetto d'Alba ($10 or less) Pretty, bright plum and berry fruit. Call it "Mr. Feelgood" in the mouth...really fruity, but not simple. There's nice little earthy complexities in the finish. This is the perfect pasta or veal wine. It's what I drink when I'm in Italy and thinking of Zinfandel. It's not the same grape, but the wines are often similar in style. And Dolcettos are often bargains on wine lists in Italian-American restaurants. Rating: 90/97

    If you have trouble finding any of the wines reviewed today, call my office at (800) 845-9463 or E-mail: winetrader@aol.com for help tracking them down.

   

FREE WINE GUIDE

  You can request a totally free (even the postage is paid) guide to "Steinbeck Wine Tasting Country," a series of super-premium wineries between Salinas and Greenfield in Monterey County. If you drive Highway 101 between San Francisco and Los Angeles, you may be passing some of the state's best vintners without even realizing it.

    To request your copy call (831) 678-0300 or E-mail: psvwine@aol.com.

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.