© 1996 JDM Enterprises New Focus On The Hillby Jerry D. MeadThere's this winery in Napa Valley with one of the most spectacular locations, which has been blessed with famous winemakers in residence, equally famous owners to boast, and wines that were always o.k., but only occasionally excellent to special. I always wondered what prevented Rutherford Hill Winery from being the extraordinary property it seemed destined to be. It was born out of one of America's most disastrous corporate forays into the wine business. Pillsbury (yes, the little doughboy tried to make wine back in the seventies) operated this hillside property above the Silverado Trail as Souverain of Rutherford while posting red ink in the millions. When Pillsbury ran back to its mills in Minneapolis, it was purchased by basically the same partnership as owns well known Freemark Abbey Winery. The owners just happened also to be grape growers. With well known winemakers Phil Baxter and Jerry Luper at the helm, the wines should have been better. Using the 20/20 of hindsight, it appears that the grapegrowing owners operated the winery almost as a co- op, selling it the fruit that they couldn't sell to other wineries for a higher price. In other words, the winemakers were making the best they could from the raw material they were given to work with. I'm told that the new winemaking team has more say in selecting the fruit it wants from the partners' vineyards (some of the best in the valley), and it's beginning to show in the wines. I can honestly say that I just tasted the most exciting collection of Rutherford Hill wines ever. Congratulations to management for seeing the light and to the new winemaking team of Kevin Robinson (reds) and Kent Barthman (whites). Rutherford Hill is also a great visit when your in the Napa Valley, by the way, for its spectacular view, friendly tasting room, delightful picnic facilities and an interesting tour including its hundreds of yards of manmade tunnels in the side of the mountain. And Rutherford Hill wines have good national distribution. Rutherford Hill Winery, P.O. Box 388, 200 Rutherford Hill Rd., Rutherford, CA 94573 (707) 963-1871. Rutherford Hill 1994 "Napa" Merlot ($15) The winery has been known for Merlot longer than just about anyone except Louis Martini, and this is a specially designated "20th Anniversary Bottling." In a tight Merlot market, I'll tell you up front to buy this one by the case while it lasts. Beautifully intense, but still soft and velvety. Really pretty black cherry fruit with earthy, leathery complexity. The flavors grow throughout the taste experience, entering boldly but building to a crescendo even after you swallow. The best Merlot ever from an estate known for the variety. Rating: 93/90 Rutherford Hill 1994 "Napa-Mead Ranch" Zinfandel ($16) Before you suspect a conflict, I've never even met the folks who own this vineyard. Production is very limited (call the winery). Great black raspberry aroma and flavor with hints of white and black pepper into the after-flavors. Very ripe, but not overripe. A great wine for accompanying lamb. Rating: 91/87 Rutherford Hill 1992 "Napa" Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) Classic berry and green olive flavors. Medium bodied and quite elegantly structured...it's a Cabernet that Merlot lovers will love. Rating: 88/88 Rutherford Hill also holds back some wines for additional aging that are actually available (especially at restaurants) in many national markets. Rutherford Hill 1987 "XVS" Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) This is a vineyard and barrel select wine...a true reserve quality red. Earthy, tarry, berry and cassis...what mature wine is all about. Waves of flavors and an aftertaste you could time with an hourglass. Amazing value for a nearly 10 year old wine. Rating: 92/92 Rutherford Hill 1986 "Library Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon ($17) Flavors more in the blackberry vein, with more of that earthy, truffley complexity. While a year older than the XVS, it seems younger and has a still mildly astringent finish. Rating: 87/87
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