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+--- Thread: CA PN Regions (/thread-6565.html)
- MikeE - 05-29-1999
Opened a bottle of this last night. Nice dried cherry and slighlty "green" nose. Similar tastes, except that the acidity seemed pretty high. Is this fairly typical for HP? Bien Nacido?
Babcock's PN's don't seem to exhibit this style of acidity, but other Central Coast PNs seem fairly acidic to me (Byron, Au Bon Climat off the top of my head). Being a PN novice, I'd appreciate thoughts. As a frame of reference (and gross generalities), my favorite CA PN are usually from Russian River (Rochioli, Farrell). I'm luke warm on Carneros (way too much candied cherry flavors); have enjoyed Monterey/Paso Robles (Talley) and luke warm again on Napa PN. The Pisoni Vineyard is producing very lush fruit (Siduri, Nichols). I realize that these are generalities, but given limited sample sets, its the best one can do!
I realize that other wine boards have had the "which region produces the best PN" discussion, but I haven't seen it here yet. I also realize that I've excluded Oregon, but that's because I have had only a very few PNs from Oregon and couldn't reasonably even make generalizations.
Thoughts are appreciated!
- Bucko - 05-29-1999
Pinot Noir is one of my favorite varietals. I omit Burgundy because you have to kiss too many frogs to find a prince.
S. CA Pinots have their own character in general, but varies widely by producer. I'm not a big Carneros fan either, although Acacia has really been coming on strong lately - no candy there - give the Acacia Beckstoffer a try. I purchased a case. The Santa Cruz Pinots are right up my alley. Mount Eden has long been a favorite - big earthy flavors. Russian River tends to be my favorite area, especially Joseph Swan. Mendocino county has been turning out some nice, light-styled Pinots.
OR is an up and down place for sure. I do the barrel tasting bit every Memorial Day weekend - I'm heading there early tomorrow. I'll try to post notes on the leaders.
Bucko
- Randy Caparoso - 05-29-1999
MikeE, sounds like you have experience aplenty with California PN. It took me years to start to make distinctions. And now, the scene appears to be changing before our eyes, what with the emergence of the Sonoma Coast and Mendocino as possibly pre-eminent sources.
In fact, as proof of that, I suggest that you take a peek at the '97 Siduri "Hirsch Vineyard" from Sonoma Coast as proof of that. Of all the '97 Siduri cuvees -- the Archery Summit (Oregon), Pisoni (Santa Lucia Highlands), and Van der Kamp (Sonoma Mt.) -- the Hirsch appears to the brightest, most focused, and finesseful (don't get to use that last term too often).
As for Oregon, there are certainly vintage variations and issues of average to extraordinary cuvees (in any given year from any one producer) facing the average consumer. But the reason a lot of PN lovers seem to think of that region as a "promised land" is that they are able to produce wines of such clarity of varietal intensity -- unfettered by qualities such as broad, often clunky structures, green herbal/leafiness, and perfumes of almost overripe fruit which are so common in California. Or, pretty much the same things that you pointed out that seem to bother you about various CA PNs. They tend to bother me to -- and I consider myself a "true" PN drinker (meaning, I drink far more of this wine than any other).
The best PN I've tasted from Mendocino so far, by the way, is the '97 Ici La-Bas "La Detente," which has beautifully scented, crisp, pure fruit qualities enhanced by smoky oak.
I have to admit that the most perfect CA PN for me has been ABC's "Isabelle" -- a powerfully aromatic, silken laced blend of several Central Coast sources each year which achieves far more grace and finesse than what you would normally expected from anything carrying a CA moniker.
Other than that, I have to agree that Santa Barbara PNs do tend to have acidic and slightly annoying cranberry-sweet (even if beautifully smoky/spicy) qualities that often soar out of control (rarely, however, in an ABC, Lane Tanner and Babcock, but more often in a Byron and Fess Parker).
In Carneros, I've often been disappointed by lean, sour cherry characteristics of even the best producers (often Saintsbury, sometimes Acacia, but rarely in an Etude). Examples of the this sour, or else just plain murky, styles of this region that I have found recently are the '96s by Domaine Carneros, Beringer "Stanley Ranch," and Reserves by B.V. and Mondavi. For the price you pay ($18-plus), I don't know... and just when I think this, you find beautiful exceptions -- such as (most recently) the lovely, floral, crisply balanced '96 Keegan, and a '96 Cuvaison "Eris" (simply lush, succulent and delicate, with on-the-money PN spice in the fragrance).
I can't argue with people who are into the Russian River Valley. I find them quite satisfying in terms of sheer generosity and smoky spiciness; but ultimately they don't have quite the delicacy and finesse that I prefer (a personal judgement, mind you). For me, this goes for producers like Gary Farrell, Rochioli and Williams-Selyem. I have been more intrigued, however, by recent "OFS" bottlings by De Loach, who are just heating up with Russian River PN vineyard production and have been doing some very refined, lacy things. Jordan "J," by the way, produced a similarly structured, fine, fragrant, cinnamony-strawberry scented PN in '97. And in nearby Green Valley, Iron Horse has turned out interesting, worthwhile things -- nicely rounded, velvety textured, partially barrel fermented PNs, without, however, super-intensity -- in '96 and '97.
As for Santa Cruz Mt. styles -- I certainly would never turn down a bottle of a David Bruce and such. But again, ultimately their heavier, fleshier style does not quite send me as high as, say, a Ponzi Reserve, an ABC Isabelle, or Adelsheim "Elizabeth's."
As for the areas like Chalone, Santa Lucia Highlands, and Mount Harlan (meaning, you-know-who), it's rare that I find something that I actually enjoy drinking from these areas. As you might imagine for a "finesse" guy like me, I find these PNs very fascinating from an aromatic standpoint, but also alcoholic (not in good ways), often coarse, sometimes bitter, sharp, and ultimately, well, difficult to just drink. I know lots of people love'em, but my palate is just a little too soft, I guess.
Finally, just this past week I found one from Monterey that definitely qualifies as the finest PN value I have found this year: the '96 Mirassou, which retails for less than $10 and delivers incredibly (for the price) spiced, gracefully rounded and persistent flavors. A great PN for, say, breakfast (an omelette laced with mushrooms and balsamic vinegar?); to precede, of course, a '97 Flowers - Sonoma Coast with some grilled salmon for lunch, and a hum-baby '96 Rex Hill Oregon "Reserve" with a dinner of duck confit cassoulet!
Anyhow, that's my top-of-the-head "feel" of the PN market today. Does this confirm or prompt any of your thoughts?
[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 05-29-99).]
[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 05-29-99).]
[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 05-30-99).]
- MikeE - 06-01-1999
Hey Buck and Randy, thanks for your thoughts.
Regarding Siduri, I've tried all of their '97s except the Hirsch... ugh, that figures!
Thanks for some tips like Mt. Eden and Swan. I've seen them in stores, but didn't know much about them.
Buck, I love your "kiss too many frogs" analogy. Pinot is definitely like that. Guess that's why finding a good one feels like such a victory.
Randy, boy, your thoughts on Carneros were taken right out my head. I do like Acacia and Etude, but the Beringer and Mondavi offerings left me cold. I'm actually suprised that the Beringer Stanley (or Staley?) Ranch was as weak as it was. Even Sinskey's PN (supposedly their premier offering) from Carneros was disjointed for my tastes.
ABC's "Isabelle" sounds wonderful, but at $50, it's a bit on the high end (though Siduri, Talley, etc. aint cheap either).
Randy, I guess it just confirms that each region has its own characteristics and that it takes good winemakers to bring out the best of those characteristics. Which means, you gotta taste 'em to find 'em!
Thanks for the thoughts... ME
Buck, we're interested to hear about your Pinot trip this past weekend whenever you get a chance to share.