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Wretched Holiday Excess...... - Printable Version

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- Bucko - 01-01-2002

.....but hey, someone has to do it! I borrowed my friends notes - too lazy to duplicate. It was a lovely weekend on the OR Coast, and of course the locals were going wild over the Ducks wing-whipping the Buffalos.
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Last night in Neskowin we tackled some humungous Porterhouse Steaks and some interesting wines.

Tattinger NV. Aged in our cellar in a magnum for about 4 years. I've found this to be the key to nonvintage Champagne, and this didn't disappoint.

1990 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet. This was surprisingly good, and advanced in development. It was a nice example of "Claret", with aromas of leather mixed in with black currant. The wine was smooth in the mouth with the tastes consistent with the nose. The finish might have been the weakest component, but it was certainly adequate. The wine is probably near its peak, but it's not going around the bend soon.

1997 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir. This wine came courtesy of Peter Shea, Mike's brother who has access to the wines of Australia. Phillip Jones is reputed to be doing the best job with Pinot in South Victoria. This was a cuvee since the single vineyard offerrings are sold out. The wine had a very full Pinot Noir nose and was more representative of Burgundy than most Pinots from Oregon except for perhaps Drouhin. The wine had surprising weight for its relative youth, and it finished with fullness. Sweet cherry fruit notes were dominant in the taste. If the cuvee is this good, the single vineyard wines should be great.

1978 Chateau Cheval Blanc. Uh oh! This wine has never shown particularly well in the past. It went to prove that greatness is often a matter of timing. This was its time. The color was a dark brickish red and the wine showed not effects of being transported to Neskowin over the windy roads of Polk and Tillamook Counties. The nose had virtually every descriptor that is drug up for old Bordeaux, including the cedar and lead pencil notes from a Ticonderoga #2. It even had the not unpleasant "sour milk" notes. The mouth feel had the elusive "sweetness" that comes with truly great wines even though there is absolutely no residual sugar. There was plenty of fruit to go with the complex tanins, and the wine was so balanced that it seemed non- alcoholic. The finish was very smooth and long. The wine continued to develop in the glass, but since it was the one that got passed around immediately, we don't know how long the development would have continued. For the first 20 years in the cellar it seemed like an inopportune purchase, now the quest is on to find some at auction.

1987 Joseph Phelps Insignia, Eisele and Backus Cabernet horizontal. Randy Buckner produced these in lieu of a 94,95,96 Ridge Monte Bello horizontal to accompany the huge Porterhouse steaks he brought. According to Randy the Backus was recalled by the winemaker on suspicion of "brett" or bacterial problem, but we couldn't discern any at all. The similarity in style was obvious, with the dominant aromas being eucalyptus, and mint. There was plenty of backbone to go along with ample fruit, and the wines paired well with the "Moo". Favorites varied, but the Insignia and Eisele were finished, and half of the Backus left for breakfast.

1996 Rene Renou Bonnezeaux Les Melleresses. This region of the Loire is located very near to Quart Du Charme, and is sometimes described as a "little brother". It can stand on its own. Unlike QDC which can take years to evolve this wine was already at or near its peak after five years. Americans are hard pressed to believe that Chenin Blanc can be vinified to this complexity. The sweetness was not cloying and the fruit notes made the wine an ideal companion to Carole's Apricot Tarte.

Next day:

The '78 Bordeaux onslaught continued. Ch. Lafite Rothschild was closed at first, but opened up to reveal cigar box and lead pencil notes. The tastes were consistent, and the finish was surprisingly long. The Ch. Mouton Rothschild was similar with more fruit. The Ch. Haut Brion was softer than
either of them, and more similiar to the Cheval Blanc. With the exception of the Lafite, all of them were at their peak. The Lafite could use a few more years.

The wines to accompany the New York Loin Roast from Lobels were the Ridge Monte Bello Cabernets. The '94 was the narrow winner over the '95 with the '96 still a little closed.

An '83 Dows Port was a classic accompaniment to a beautifully ripened Stilton.

And a good time was had by all..........


- Innkeeper - 01-02-2002

Oh wretch, and not just on this board, but another. Did't some of the invitations get lost in the mail? Anyway, Happy New Year.


- winoweenie - 01-02-2002

Sounds like you might have been a little short on selection and quality. I REALLY be jealous. Oh Well! What the hay. Happy News Yeers good Dr. WW [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/biggrin.gif[/img]