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+--- Thread: 2007 White Burgundies from Alex Gambal (/thread-5566.html)
- wondersofwine - 05-16-2009
I begged my way into this tasting at a private home on Nantucket but then one pair of house guests didn't make it so there was plenty of room. Alex didn't present his red Burgundies because they were not ready for bottling in time to ship to Boston and have for this event. I was mildly disappointed at not getting to try his red wines but the 2007 Chardonnays were all stellar. I first tasted Alex's wines with the 1997 vintage so it has been a full decade now. He said that the 1997 presentation was one of his first tastings in the USA.
I didn't attempt detailed notes so most of this information is from the handout from the negociant/eleveur.
We first had the 2007 BOUERGOGNE CHARDONNAY CUVEE PRESTIGE. Grapes from Alex Gambal Domaine in Volnay and grapes purchased from the lieu dits in Meursault, Puligny, and Savigny Les Beaune.
20% new oak bottled in September 2008
Alex says the wine will drink best late 2009 through 2010 but was fine now.
I found this to have a classic nose and to be rich tasting with unobtrusive wood. 50% of the grapes are from Alex's domaine. The wine saw light fining but no need to clarify the wine. Lemony character which typifies the vintage.
The next wine was an excellent St. Aubin (2007) 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Would be very food friendly. As Alex says, his Chardonnays are made for Nantucket cuisine--scallops and fish in a light creamy sauce, etc. He also feels St. Aubin is underrecognized for the quality of the wines. 30% new oak Bottled in Sept. 2008. The key to the whites in 2007 was picking as late as possible. Picking was two or three weeks later than usual. This vineyard produced concentrated grapes in 2007 but quantities were down 20%. Will be best in 2010.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET
20% new oak bottled in Sept. 2008
Pushed back the date of picking 10 days and gained 1.5 degrees in sugar; the key to the Puligny being powerful with a great balance of fruit and natural acidity along with the citrus elements of classic Puligny. It will be best in 2010-2013. Alex noted lime zest flavor as in a gin and tonic with lime slice. I didn't get that but sense a hazelnut flavoring such as sometimes found in Meursault. Very elegant and nice. Lengthy finish. Wood is subtle in all these Chardonnays, not overpowering. Alex says this bottling sells for about 19 Euros in Burgundy but would cost around $60 at retail in the States. (sigh)
2007 Chassagne-Montrachet
30% new oak bottled in February 2009
Grapes from two parcels of 65/35 year old vines. Will be best in about three years.
I found this somewhat chewy on the palate. Grapes are from Essarts and Blanchots Dessous. Blanchots is 1er cru but the land just below it (dessous) is considered village wine. 55-year old vines
2007 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean
20% new oak bottled in February 2009.
30-year old vines
A couple feet of topsoil, then solid rock beneath.
Alex says when the bees are going crazy and white flowers are out in September he knows the grapes in this vineyard are ripe for the picking.
Rich lemon creaminess. Perhaps not as rich and WOW as the 1999 but one I had looked forward to trying once again and one I would be very happy to have in my cooler. Alex's notes: "It always tastes great young and then holds steady for 5-7 years. It should begin to show well in 2010." So maybe in another year it will be as rich as the 1999 vintage?
2007 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie
25% new oak bottled February 2009
More open than other vintages at this point.
Terroir of white rocks ( calceous limestone) and rusted iron ore. 25 Euros in Burgundy; around $75 at retail in the States.
Alex's notes: "As Clos St. Jean is typically open and inviting, La Maltroie is concentrated, reserved and is a long distance runner. La Maltroie takes a good 3-5 years to show its stuff due to the iron ore in the soil that gives the tension we love. It will be best in 2011-2015."
We also learned that Alex bought some Chambertin that Girardin didn't purchase this year. A barrel of Chambertin which can produce 300 bottles can cost 20,000 Euros.
Alex vinifies from grapes about 90-95% of the time. The rest is semi-finished wine. This year he produced 180 barrels--only 14 barrels of red compared to 25 or 30 in most vintages--hail damage. He wasn't able to produce a Volnay Santenots this year (a shame as this has been very good in the past.)
I asked about whether he had experienced a premature oxidation problem with his Chardonnays. He said he had been very lucky. He and Richard, a wine auctioneer from London, discussed what is causing the pre-ox problem. He thinks some of the larger producers are not using enough sulphur at the right time. The comment came up that it is some of the big names who are experiencing this problem and they may not exert the manpower to check each barrel for the time to add sulphur since the juice progresses differently from barrel to barrel.
Great session.
- VouvrayHead - 05-16-2009
fascinating notes! thanks!